Diversity NOW! Competition Launches at GFW 2012
A selection of student visions of a diverse fashion future
Fashion is a powerful communicator to people about their identity. Here at All Walks, we believe that this power can be used for good, to promote individuality and self-esteem through creativity and diversity.
NOW! is the time for creatives to boldly vision a fashion future which steps beyond stereotypes, redefines boundaries and celebrates a wider range of beauty and body ideals in age, size and race. A fashion future that empowers and emboldens people, which envisions impactful, emotionally considerate practice in all areas of the industry.
Today at Graduate Fashion Week 2012 in London, we launched Diversity NOW!, a national student competition to discover those creatives who will lead the way toward this diverse fashion future.
Students are invited to take their lead from industry visionaries such as Vivienne Westwood, Nick Knight, Mark Fast, Alexander McQueen, Hussein Chalayan, Kayt Jones and Chen Man, but to show us what THEIR vision of this fashion future looks like. We are looking for students to create a piece of work that embodies our philosophy of fashion for all walks, using individuality and diversity in body and beauty ideals as a starting point for creativity.
We’re looking for directional, aspirational work showcasing fashion on a range of bodies types and individuals. Think exciting, striking and cutting-edge images, film, design or prose.
Womenswear
Menswear
Fashion Film
Zines
Photography
Journalism
Illustration
View the full Diversity NOW! terms and conditions and submission details.
Ravensbourne takes All Walks ‘LIVE’ and to the BBC’s Big Screen Project
Taking place at Greenwich Peninsula, to an audience of media, fashion academics and young student designers, International Women’s Day saw the launch of website All Walks Beyond the Catwalk LIVE at Ravensbourne; an interactive platform created by Ravensbourne’s BA (Hons) Fashion students, lending it’s voice to promoting positive body image globally. The website aims to ‘demonstrate that fashion should be accessible to all, and fashion imagery should be inclusive of all from ages, irrespective of size, age or ethnicity, to reflect the multi-cultural society in which we live’.
Supported by the British Fashion Council, Ravensbourne believes that:
Vocationally-focused higher education fashion courses are undergoing change, with subject-specialist skills now being enhanced by a greater emphasis on building business acumen and understanding social and political theory. The aim is to produce more commercially viable designers in the future to ensure the British Fashion industry continues to lead the world.
Creating a platform that strives to support ‘the real beauty of women, aged 18-80’, 3rd Year Ravensbourne students are encouraging the public to become involved with their campaign by inviting everyone to submit individual photographs of natural beauty; these images will be housed in an online gallery and used as part of a discussion on the concept of diversity.
All Walks Beyond the Catwalk LIVE can only become successful with the help of people like you. If you’d like to become involved in the project, please upload your picture and find out more about the campaign here: www.allwalksandravensbourne.com/. In addition, the website’s accompanying student films will be shown across the country as part of the BBC Big Screen project. Screens will be located in shopping centres such as Westfield and others public spaces, including Edinburgh – Festival Square, Birmingham – Victoria Square, Cardiff – The Hayes and many more.
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Post by Charmaine Ayden
Editor Charlotte Gush, on Twitter @CavaCharlotte
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Charmaine Aydenis a Fashion Communication graduate from Northumbria University. An avid admirer of all things ‘glossy’, she set her heart on a career in Fashion Journalism from a young age. Undertaking work placements with Vogue, WSGN, Asos, Drapers and Glamour Magazine, Charmaine is currently working as Copy and Features Writer for Brownsfashion.com. Check out Charmaine’s blog The Good is the Beautiful and find her on Twitter @CharmaineAyden |
High School Students discuss Body Image as part of BBC School Report
Skip to the 12 minute mark to hear students from Tarporley High School in Cheshire discuss body image, focusing particularly on how the media affects the way teenagers feel about their appearance. Later in the piece, students quiz gorgeous "plus size" model Jenna Herlingshaw and CBBC presenter Cerrie Burnell, who was born with only one hand, about their appearances and experiences.***
Words by Charlotte Gush, on Twitter @CavaCharlotte
Students’ Marching Mannequins bring the All Walks’ message to Edinburgh
When fashion students at Edinburgh College of Art were faced with a ‘flatpack’ mannequin and a group of Fashion Journalists from UCA Epsom, as part of the University of Edinburgh’s “Innovative Learning Week”, it’s safe to say we felt slightly dubious about what lay ahead. Despite this, Course Director of Fashion at ECA, Mal Burkinshaw, reassured students that there was method, at least some, to his madness.Students working to construct the pattern for their mannequins
The project brief was to promote the “All Walks Beyond The Catwalk” campaign using the self-assemble model of a 1950s cardboard mannequin, an object that symbolised the ‘make-do-and-mend’ era, when amateur dressmaking was at its most prominent. Our task was to assemble the mannequin and then use it as a ‘blank canvas’ to create an inspired “All Walks” campaign message of diversity within the fashion industry. Little did we know these would later be pushed into the public eye, literally, on the streets of Edinburgh.
Students working on their Renaissance inspired mannequin, which sought to highlight society’s changing opinion of beauty and the body
Not only did this project offer us a chance to creatively convey the important messages of the “All Walks” campaign - celebrating diversity in ethnicity, age, shape and size, and the need to communicate these to the public - but, by constructing the mannequins, it allowed us to manipulate body sizes - a hands on way for us, as fashion students, to really explore and understand the contours of the body and how much bodies can differ.
Realising that, in emotionally considerate design, we should always refer back to the insight that the human body is unique by nature, we were more fired up than ever to project our belief to the public that we don’t have to be constrained by one prescribed image of ‘beauty.’
The march begins!
Now, it could just have been that the ‘march’ through the streets of Edinburgh offered us a chance to take part in a student demonstration, but I know it meant far more than that to both ECA and UCA Epsom students. We all chose to be a part of the project because we passionately believe that the “All Walks” campaign is so relevant to today’s diverse society and that the public should hear about it and know that people within the industry are really striving to change the images produced by the world of fashion for the better.
Outside the Scottish Parliament
Outside The Scotsman, campaigning to get All Walks into the local press
Shocked at the Harvey Nichols windows, showcasing extremely skinny models, crying and disheveled – is this a positive image of fashion?
Our march took us to Princes Street, the main shopping high street in Edinburgh to educate the consumer directly
After marching around Edinburgh for two and a half hours, from the Scottish Parliament to Primark on Princes Street, handing out flyers and chanting loudly, a sore throat was a small price to pay for what I saw as an extremely worthwhile day of education and of broadcasting our important message.
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Words by Heather Dooley, Fashion Student at Edinburgh College of Art
Images courtesy of Mal Burkinshaw, Dir. 'All Walks Centre for Diversity,' ECA
Editor Charlotte Gush, on Twitter @CavaCharlotte
Diversity & Individuality at London Fashion Week AW2012
This season, the menswear shows especially seemed to be stepping away from the Hedi Slimane-style extremity of only thin caucasian models. We saw a healthy mix of from slim to athletic to muscular bodies and a range of ethnicities, especially at Vauxhall Fashion Scout's 'Ones to Watch' show, from designers such as BodyBound:One of my favorite looks was at Joseph Turvey, who showcased extreme pinks and other bold colours on the catwalk that looked great against a variety of skin tones and reflected a very cool, carefree attitude to the mens clothing which embraces my favorite era in style and models; the 80's.
One womenswear design duo, sisters Tamara and Natasha Surguladze - also known as the brand Tata-Naka - had a fun atmospheric Tea Party presentation this London Fashion Week with alcoholic cocktails served in dainty tea cups and saucers.
With the sound of The Surpremes playing in the background, and walls covered in Tata-Naka print fabric, the room was filled with a real buzz as models lined up playfully posing for the press and bloggers.
With a mixture of skin tones and big afro hair, the models at Tata Naka certainly caught my attention. The 70's spirit of the collection, and the fun way they chose to present it, celebrating the women, generated a really good atmosphere and made it one of my favourite collections of the season from the perspective of diversity and individulity.
These shows give good examples of diversity on the catwalk, but if there still is not enough (there isn't) then there certainly was around Somerset House - the home of London Fashion Week. Here are some street style snaps I took of people that certainly embraced their individuality in cool and quirky ways. You may recognise some of these faces - such as the designer for Sibling and Diane Pernet:
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Post by Michael Williamson, on Twitter @mwfrost
Editor Charlotte Gush, on Twitter @CavaCharlotte
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Michael Williamson is a designer, stylist, blogger and an integral member of the All Walks team, having been with us from the very beginning. Check out his blog, Safety-Pin Charm, to keep your finger on the pulse of all things fashion - especially london based. Follow Michael on You Tube and on Twitter @mwfrost |
Interview: Make-Up Maestro Kay Montano talks Beauty and Diversity
Self-described as a ‘Trojan Horse,’ make-up artist Kay Montano is a modern-day feminist with a passion for diversity; displaying an aversion to ‘born Barbie’ culture, she’s definitely not interested in ‘keeping up with the Kardashians’.
Sandwiched between her feminist views and the aesthetically orientated world of make-up, Kay carefully balances the two seemingly contradictory forces:
"Make-Up needn’t be seen as corrective or something to hide behind. I see it as another form of expression and acceptance, even pleasure, of being in your own skin. It’s too easy and too unintelligent to say that wearing make-up means that you’re not empowered. Being a feminist has got nothing to do with what you look like, you could wear make-up, high-heels and have your tits out and still be a feminist.
Sexuality is normal and bodies are nothing to be ashamed of - we learn that it's really all about having awareness of your true intentions. You shouldn't have to hide yourself to be treated as a normal human being. Whether or not to see this freedom an act of sexual submission or sartorial freedom (whether an observer or participant) is all about your own reasons for viewing and participating. As we know, nudity is viewed by different cultures entirely differently, according to what is learned there."
With over twenty years experience within the fashion and beauty industries, Kay has observed representations of the female form morph from a spectrum of ideals to the promotion of an increasingly narrow physical archetype:
"I think that society has regressed back to a really limited stereotype of women, relying on regressive laddish fantasies of 'processed' sexuality, where women look like a cross between little girls and porn stars."
Naming a collection of beauty icons including Anjelica Huston and Lauren Hutton, Kay insists that it’s the imperfections that make us unique and beautiful:
"All my beauty icons have got something a little strange about them, but that’s what makes them exceptional. It’s easier to say what beauty doesn’t mean to me, rather than what it does. It’s not exclusive to any age, race or gender, and it’s not about suffering, oppression or fitting in."
Urging young woman to aspire to alternative role models and reject ‘Kardashian culture’, Kay believes that contemporary feminism comes in the unlikeliest of packages:
"There are so many women who are threatened by the silly notions of what feminism is. The reason I can [now] be so self-assured is that when I grew up I had so many feminist role models. Paula Yates and Gloria Steinem would write gutsy and sassy columns in Cosmopolitan magazine; I was brought up to believe that feminism was seriously hot, so it’s such a shock to see that everyone has gone so 'Kardashian'. More girls should be looking to young women like Tavi Gevinson, who’s speaking to teenagers in a positive way. I love how she writes in Rookie Magazine; she’s young, stylish and talks candidly about being a feminist."
Saluting its co-founders Caryn, Debra and Erin, Kay considers All Walks Beyond the Catwalk to be an integral piece of the jigsaw puzzle in order to reform body image perceptions and appreciate diversity:
"All Walks Beyond the Catwalk has evolved from an earnest movement, to something that’s happening all over the world. The girls have really done their groundwork and have been trailblazers for the cause; I admire them for that. It’s very hard for people in the industry to come forward. People don’t like upturning the apple cart, but All Walks haven’t been afraid to do that."
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Interview by Charmaine Ayden
Editor Charlotte Gush, on Twitter @CavaCharlotte
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Charmaine Ayden is a Fashion Communication graduate from Northumbria University. An avid admirer of all things ‘glossy’, she set her heart on a career in Fashion Journalism from a young age. Undertaking work placements with Vogue, WSGN, Asos, Drapers and Glamour Magazine, Charmaine is currently working as Copy and Features Writer for Brownsfashion.com. Check out Charmaine’s blog The Good is the Beautiful and find her on Twitter @CharmaineAyden |
All Walks Hosts UK Screening of Miss Representation at Parliament
“With the lack of female role models reflected in our general media, women often look to fashion for a narrative on femininity. The work of All Walks Beyond the Catwalk to promote a broader range of beauty and body ideals in age, size and skin tone is, therefore, essential”
Catch up on Lynne Featherstone’s Huffington Post blog: Charmaine Ayden is a Fashion Communication graduate from Northumbria University. An avid admirer of all things ‘glossy’, she set her heart on a career in Fashion Journalism from a young age. Undertaking work placements with Vogue, WSGN, Asos, Drapers and Glamour Magazine, Charmaine is currently working as Copy and Features Writer for Brownsfashion.com. Check out Charmaine’s blog The Good is the Beautiful and find her on Twitter @CharmaineAyden
Beauty, retouched: Is natural beauty just not beautiful enough?
The 'retouching' of imagery is all around us; the process is used to 'perfect' most, if not every, photograph within the media. Natural beauty is often disguised by the detailed manipulation of ‘imperfections’ during the post-production process, producing a glamorous illusion of many icons in our culture. Magazine editors have argued that the reasoning behind retouching stems from the reading audience wanting a perfected look, which they in turn aim to portray in there day-to-day lives. They also say that readers know that the photographs they see are altered and, therefore, they do not need to be labeled as such.
This poses the question, ‘Is re-touching necessary?’ To the extent that it is currently used, I personally do not think it is. Being bombarded with images of ‘perfect’ super-toned bodies and flawless skin can, and does, give a distorted image of beauty which many women feel pressure to live up to. But look at these images of Madonna and Angelina Jolie. They are beautiful already, before the retouching. In my opinion, ‘flaws and blemishes’ should be celebrated, as they create individuality; the essence of true beauty.
The images above show the kind of retouching that most editorial and advertising images undergo. They give us an idea of how much work goes into post-production and how manipulated the final images are. Images which give their viewers an un-realistic image of beauty to aspire to.
For Dove's 2003 "Campaign for Real Beauty" they produced a short film called ‘Evolution’ which provides a refreshing view of the truth behind the image; stripping back the make up, undoing the slimming processes and showing the blemishes of reality. Once uploaded, the advert was viewed over 40,000 times in its first day, 1,700,000 times within a month of its upload and 12,000,000 times within its first year. Here is one of the many Youtube videos of the film:
Tell us what you think about retouching in the media on the All Walks Beyond the Catwalk Facebook page.
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Post by Zina Graber
Zina is a fashion styling student from Cornwall who has a huge interest in celebrating the female form and individuality through styling. I want to be part of changing women’s negative perceptions of themselves so I have recently created a campaign that promotes global style and fashion diversity. The idea is to collect photos of individuals around the world, no matter who you are and showcase you’re style to the world. Check out "What Ya Wearing World?" and find Zina on Twitter @whatyawearingw
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Editor Charlotte Gush, on Twitter @CavaCharlotte
Our London Fashion Week Highlights
This season, for the first time since our launch in September 2009, we decided not to produce a high-profile industry campaign during fashion week. The reason for this is that we have been focusing all of our attention on the educational side of our work, helping to shape the mindset of future industry players - designers, writers, image makers - towards emotionally considerate practice. To this end, All Walk's founders Caryn and Debra will continue to tour the country, speaking to students at university level about the All Walks way.However, the spirit of All Walks has continued to have a presence on the catwalks during fashion month, and I would like to share these highlights with you. At All Walks, we love to see the people we work with doing really well, and this London Fashion Week has certainly made us proud.
You may have read in a prevous post, written by our Editor Charlotte Gush, about one of the original All Walks pairings, of designer Alexandra Groover and model Lucy Freeman, reuniting this season to make a film together for London Fashion Week.
I was also pleasantly surprised when I received an email containing the images below, of William Tempest's All Walks model Laura Catterall walking in the Elena Miro show in Milan, where she is channelling the perfect Mad Men silhouette with her femme fatal curves:
Coming back to the UK from Milan, spreading the spirit of our campaign at London Fashion Week was All Walks model Valerie Pain, who walked for Fyodor Golan, this year's winner of Fashion Fringe. Pain, the amazingly stunning 70-year-old model, told me that when she attended the casting, she walked in and, on sight of the samples, announced to the casting agent, "I'm not going to waste your time, they won't fit me."
However, the designers were so impressed by her that they redesigned an outfit and fitted it to Valerie's own body shape so that they could have her walk in their show. And just look how confidently she walks and how beautiful she looks in her show-stopping outfit in the short film, below:
To watch more, visit the Fashion Fringe section of the LFW website.
Until next time, I would like to leave you with this thought:
Whatever shape you are, whatever age you are, the women in this post show that being unique is the most beautiful trend to have emerged from fashion week, and I hope you can use this inspiration to embrace your individuality with pride.
Images courtesy of 12+ UK Model Management
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Post by Michael Williamson
Michael is a designer, stylist, blogger and an integral member of the All Walks team, having been with us from the very beginning. Check out his blog, Safety-Pin Charm, to keep your finger on the pulse of all things fashion - especially london based. Follow Michael on You Tube and on Twitter @mwfrost
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Editor Charlotte Gush, on Twitter @CavaCharlotte
En Pointe: Pierson and Lawler Redefine the Runway
Ten principal dancers from the Royal Ballet glide down the catwalk en pointe; like models in heels, but oh so vibrant and joyful. Their movements are choreographed to a soundtrack which is mixed live during the show; it had previously been co-composed by the designer herself along with the Brit-award winning and Oscar-nominated composer Nick Wollage. For me, this added a glorious new dimension to the idea of what a ‘runway show' can be.
Of course, there was design artistry and the collaboration of Jayne Pierson and Derek Lawler tackled pre-conceptions of textiles, like leather - often associated with fetish, and wool - old-fashioned connotations, but there was also a skillfully applied human connection so often missing from shows where young women, some incarcerated in rigid and restrictive sample garments parade gingerly and fearfully (ill conceived footwear permitting) down the runway.
Wearing their ballet shoes and sporting crimped beehive hairstyles, the dancers in possession of natural eleganceand muscular, graceful bodies, compelled every iPhone owner in the building to record the spectacle.
No, it didn’t obstruct the viewing of the clothes. Yes, I did feel uplifted and excited. Let others write about the collection.
I know I will be including this catwalk show in all the student presentations I do for All Walks this coming season, to show that diversity and individuality can be played out in many interesting ways.
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Post by Caryn Franklin, Co-founder of All Walks Beyond the Catwalk. On Twitter @Caryn_Franklin
Photography by Ross Pierson
Editor Charlotte Gush, on Twitter @CavaCharlotte
Diane Pernet’s “Shaded View” of the Model Sanctuary
Today we met with Diane Pernet who is Co-Editor in Chief of Zoo magazine and owner of one of the most famous fashion blogs, A Shaded View on Fashion. Diane took a trip down to Erin's Model Sanctuary to find out more about the emotionally considerate side of fashion.Diane and I spoke about new technology and the speed that everything is updating; a speed that does not always allow for your body to cope with the pace needed to keep up.
With stress as the topic, at one of fashion creatives' most stressful times of year, we both agreed that places like the Model Sanctury are crucial to nurturing the young minds that walk through those doors.
After a tour around the Sanctury, including a look at the Rankin portraits which are displayed in the hall as a mini-installation, Diane posed for me on our famous calico that is full of positive messages with the All Walks campaign in mind.
If only I had remembered to get her to sign the calico too! But Diane, our Blogger in black, was warm hearted, loving and very accommodating as she did an interview for another blog post for the Model Sanctuary.
As you can see below, Diane has supported All Walks since the start, championing our very first All Walks brochure the 25th anniversary London fashion week celebrations.
Black may be a classic, but nothing is more chic than diversity and love, as agreed by Diane and I.
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Words and all images by Michael Williamson
Michael is a designer, stylist, blogger and an integral member of the All Walks team, having been with us from the very beginning. Check out his blog, Safety-Pin Charm, to keep your finger on the pulse of all things fashion - especially london based. Follow Michael on You Tube and on Twitter @mwfrost
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Editor Charlotte Gush, on Twitter @CavaCharlotte
Designer Alexandra Groover teams up with All Walks model for fashion film
ALEXANDRA GROOVER 'LIFE' SS12 TRAILER from au matt on Vimeo.
Californian-born designer, and friend of All Walks, Alexandra Groover has created a short film to be shown alongside her Spring / Summer 2012 collection during London Fashion Week. The film, entitled 'LIFE', sees Groover team up with plus size model Lucy Freeman for a second time. They have previously worked together on All Walk's 'Size Me Up' campaign, where Alexandra created a bespoke dress for Lucy to wear in the campaign imagery, shot by Kayt Jones.
'LIFE' is the second film in a trilogy that started with 'BIRTH', a film which accompanied Alexandra's Autumn / Winter 2011 collection. The second film continues to explore the concepts of origin and separation, as well as dealing with the topics of growth and indepedence from the family-unit.
In LIFE a large black rosebud slowly begins to blossom on the shoreline of Southern California, only to reveal the intense fuchsia faces of five performers who uncoil themselves into a meandering line of one, long interconnected dress. As they twist and turn across the screen, the slashes of fabric joining them together billow in the wind, and their snake-like procession exits into the bright sunlight of San Diego and re-emerges against the awe-inspiring backdrop of London’s Hampstead Heath where it all ends in an explosive finale.
Alexandra Groover created the dress worn by Lucy (below) for All Walks' "Size Me Up" campaign. The campaign saw eight models selected by All Walks, of a diverse range of shapes, sizes, ages and ethnicities, pair up with eight up-and-coming British designers; Mark Fast, David Koma, Avsh Alom Gur, Hannah Marshall, William Tempest, Georgia Hardinge, Cooperative Designs and Alexandra Groover. The designers each created a bespoke outfit for their model and photographer Kayt Jones shot the images for i-D Magazine.
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Post by Charlotte Gush
Charlotte is a freelance fashion writer, blogger and editor based in Manchester, as well as the Online Commissioning Editor for All Walks. She has previously spent 6 months working for All Walks at the London office as a social media, marketing and production intern. Charlotte writes a fashion, street style and personal style blog, 'CAVACOMA.com', with a dedicated Facebook fanpage here, and a Twitter account @CavaCharlotte
Model body: proportion london’s diverse mannequins
For many, the shop mannequin is the first point of real contact that they have with a design, which they may previously have seen on the runway or in the media, and this experience informs how they may wear the garment.
Window displays have been a integral part of the shopping experience ever since the late 1950's; from enticing the customer into the store, to helping some garments take shape and show the consumer what the garment is to look like on the human form, encouraging the customer to try it on.
Proportion London, who specialize in mannequins and bust forms, have supported All Walks Beyond the Catwalk in our most recent project 'SNAPPED,' which was held at the National Portrait Gallery, by kindly loaning a collection of vintage inspired mannequins. Click here to see the mannequins in 'action.'
All Walks recently took a trip to Proportion London in order to see some of their latest mannequins and bust forms. What has got us excited is the range of different skin tones of the mannequins and the company's positive approach to ethnic diversity. Tanya Reynolds, creative director of Proportion London, says she believes that there is:
"[a restricted] range of skin colours on the catwalks, and when customers come into us they want to emulate the human being using wigs and make up, but they also look for skin tones that then tie in with their shows. So far, too often we don't see a diversity of skin tones, especially in the darker colours or the more oriental skin tones"
Because of this, Tanya decided to make a change and hired a colour specialist who was researching how different tones appear under different lights. After testing hundreds of different colours they developed about 30 paint shades from very pale to very dark skin tones in order to make their mannequins available in a selection of more realistic and diverse skin tones. Even better, if a customer requests a tone that they do not yet cater for, Proportion London will create one especially, so there are no limits on the skin tones available.
During our collaboration with Proportion London for 'SNAPPED', our event at the National Portrait Gallery, Tanya kindly allowed me to interview her for a recording which was played in the gallery's Brown Room for the one night only spectacular. I was particularly impressed by Tanya's description of how make up is applied to the mannequins in order to create different features:
"if we have been successful in sculpting an ambiguous face my make up artist will be able to change the appearance of the face to emulate the number of different cultural differences, when the Make-up artist comes in to paint he paints in oils, however, it wouldn't be like a oil painting"
Elaborating further about how the mannequin's initially ambiguous face takes shape, developing a truly individual look, Tanya explained that:
"sometimes the mannequins do not have eye sockets so he [the make-up artist] determines where the eyes are, how large they are, and also what shape and size the lips are... - all of this will be selected against the reference of what the skin shade is"
From my interview with Tanya, I now have an understanding of what Proportion London is doing in order to create diversity in the fashion industry, not through the live models on the catwalk, but through the mannequins that sell clothes to us in the stores. I hope now you too will be able to look at these mannequins and appreciate the true artistry that has gone into creating an ethnically diverse range of looks, through hair and make up, from mannequins that were originally plain and identical.
Here at All Walks we are very excited by what Proportion London are doing in order to create diversity, not just through the models who wear the clothes, but the mannequins that sell the clothes in shop windows. We are now able to appreciate the true art that goes into making mannequins appeal to diverse forms of female beauty, though the hair and make up used. Organisations like Proportion London are shaping the future of diverse beauty in fashion and are certainly breaking the mold in their artistic and creative vision.
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Post and all images by Michael Williamson
Michael is a designer, stylist, blogger and an integral member of the All Walks team, having been with us from the very beginning. Check out his blog, Safety-Pin Charm, to keep your finger on the pulse of all things fashion - especially london based. Follow Michael on Twitter @mwfrost
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Editor Charlotte Gush, on Twitter @CavaCharlotte
Caryn Franklin visits Edinburgh’s “ALL WALKS” diverse design show
As colleges gear up to show their latest collections at Graduate Fashion Week, we at All Walks can reveal that diversity is firmly on the agenda.Students at Edinburgh College of Art have been working with All Walks on a project that replaces inanimate tailor's dummies with real and opinionated women, who give the students crucial feedback about their designs.
After all, training on a lifeless dummy and a model who is paid to stay silent (both presenting only one body type, and without movement) is not a rounded training, we say!
The fact is that all women, apart from the odd catwalk model, have ordinary bodies and design students must understand the needs of ordinary women if they are to make a lucrative business; and as these great designs show, creativity is not compromised. Emotionally considerate design is possible, and working on a model with a realistic body shape is a necessity.
Why? Well, as Mal Burkinshaw - course leader at Edinburgh College of Art, who has created this project with us - says, it has made a huge impact on the learning of the students.
Mortwenna Darwel, one of the students, agrees, "I gained a much better understanding of the relationship between real women and fashion."
Jennifer Alexander adds: "I feel I've learned a lot from fittings and communicating with my All Walks muse. From this project onwards, I will take into consideration who I design for and how my garment will make the person feel."
We'd like to thank all of the tutors at Edinburgh who have worked hard to embrace diversity by introducing a range of bodies and ages into the training, in order to help students understand the true meaning of emotionally considerate design and practice.
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Post by Caryn Franklin, All Walks co-founder
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Credits: 1. Pam Craig wears blue dress by Shauni Douglas. 2. Eileen Reilly wears green dress by Isabella Lyginou. 3. Sarah Saunders wears red dress by Laura Jayne Nevis, and 4. Collette Nelson wears maroon and pink dress by Louis Anderson Bythell
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Editor Charlotte Gush, on Twitter @CavaCharlotte
The Ever Changing Female ‘Ideal’: 1900 - 1950 (part 1)
This image portrays the female beauty ideal in the early 1900s and the decades previous. The curvaceous and soft lines of her body represent the freedom of expression and the true, honest beauty of the female body. Women with this weight on their body nowadays could feel negatively about it due to today’s ideals, however, back then it was celebrated to the highest degree. I really love this image showing her beauty in full glory with her admiring herself and others looking on.
This 1910 image of a female beauty shows the fashion for the corseted wasp waist. The corset creates a definite hourglass figure through the use of a heavy-duty corset normally made using whalebone. The corset would be tied so tight that it even could damage the internal organs of the women and could often leave her breathless. My personal opinion of this look is the discomfort would outweigh the overall appeal of the wasp waist.
The 1920’s female ideal completely changed from the years previous. Women could bin their corsets and start to celebrate looser fitting outfits with a boyish feel. Hair was cut short to represent the freedom of expression during the roaring twenties. Women with boyish figures could at last be celebrated for being the beauty ideal and dresses were made with low waist lines to accentuate long legs. Beading was used on many garments to add weight and increase the movement of the fabric. Women could for the first time be as comfotable as a man. I love the 1920’s female ideal; the glitz and glamour of everyday outfits would make anyone feel good about themselves!
This image show a bunch of lovely 1930’s young women, showing off on the beach. Look how happy they look in swimwear in the height of summer. This era allowed the female ideal shape to become again curvaceous. Hemlines dropped again and allowed femininity to take pride of place in many outfits. Florals and girly colours were used to showcase the divide between men and women, where the 1920’s seemed to blur the gender through dressing more. This more curvaceous look really looks great and a lot of 1930’s inspired clothes can be seen on the catwalk and in the high street, which is great! Water for Elephants, a recent film by Francis Lawrence showcases 1930’s fashion perfectly in such amazing costume! Go check it out!
5- 1940 women were sexualised and in full femininity. Curves, legs, breasts, full make up, glamour hair and pin up style looks were popular. The female ideal was sexy, full figured, hourglass shaped and glamorous day and night. Perfection was key and women had the opportunity to try many newly introduced beauty products such as max factor pancake foundation, liquid silk stockings and pillar-box red lipstick. This look is also always available now in mainstream fashion and looks great on every shape, everyone loves a bit of glamour from time to time.
6- The 1950’s female ideal is basically an exaggerated 1940’s one. The waist was even more emphasised and hair and make up was flawless. The glamour icons such as Marilyn Monroe, Audrey Hepburn and Sophia Loren reined as style icons giving women aspirations to be glamorous. The glamour idea solely stemmed from Hollywood icons and film stars allowing women who didn’t fit the ‘ideal’ feel very excluded and insecure. The pressure to live up the ideal was tough and demanding, comparing this to today’s ‘slim ideal’ some people would say it’s a similar pressure felt today by some women.
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Post by Zina Graber
Zina is a fashion styling student from Cornwall who has a huge interest in celebrating the female form and individuality through styling. I want to be part of changing women’s negative perceptions of themselves so I have recently created a campaign that promotes global style and fashion diversity. The idea is to collect photos of individuals around the world, no matter who you are and showcase you’re style to the world. Check out "What Ya Wearing World?" and find Zina on Twitter @whatyawearingw
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Images linked to source
Editor Charlotte Gush, on Twitter @CavaCharlotte
Glamour Espana: My most beautiful flaw
When I read the title of the article, ?My most beautiful flaw? in the May issue of Spanish Glamour magazine, I was shocked to see the word flaw related to something positive. I kept on reading and realized that the article was more an illustrated report, featuring five models with special physical characteristics – usually considered to be flaws – which, in their cases, made a positive differentiation in their careers.
The cases portrayed are the plus size model Jennie Runk, the model Verena – whose eyes are different colors, the black albino model Diandra Forrest, the Italian model Amanda Lopes - who has a protuberant nose, and Sabine, a black model who keeps her natural afro hairstyle.
In my opinion, Glamour’s approach is an interesting attempt to show diverse beauty. However, not all the images are equally surprising or rare, and I don’t believe that keeping natural afro hair or not getting surgery on a Mediterranean nose should be considered big differences inside the fashion industry.
Nevetheless, I recognize that these women send a positive message about uniqueness by feeling good about the differences that make them special. I only hope we can see them soon on Glamour’s fashion shoots.
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Post by Maria Llanos
Our voice from Spain! After graduating in Business Administration, María worked in marketing at L’oréal for almost 3 years. After this period, she decided to develop her creativity by studying an MA in Design Studies at Central Saint Martins, where she developed her thesis around the evolution of the ideal female beauty concept and got to know All Walks. Currently, María is working at a Communication agency in Madrid. Check out all her posts here, and on Twitter @merillanos.
*** All images courtesy of Glamour Espana
Editor Charlotte Gush, on Twitter @CavaCharlotte
Nigella Lawson and the “Burkini” Debate
She is the British food writer and self proclaimed ‘domestic goddess,’ known equally for her Rubenesque figure as she is for her mouth watering recipes. So when Nigella Lawson was photographed on Bondi Beach dressed in what has been described as a “burkini,” it was guaranteed to spark a debate. Why did she cover up? And more to the point- why do we care?Suggested theories behind her choice of clothing range from it being a political statement, to extreme protection from the sun in an attempt to retain her alabaster complexion; either way Lawson was expressing her right to dress in a manner that she deemed suitable for the occasion.
Who would blame her if she was covering up to avoid the criticism faced by famous women whilst on the beach? As a woman of a certain age, and of a size which does not conform to conventional ideals, Lawson would no doubt come under the scrutiny of the usual host of women’s weekly magazines. The familiar ‘circle of shame,’ used to highlight even the smallest of ‘imperfections,’ reinforces negative body image instead of embracing diversity and empowering women.
As a fuller figured woman who seems comfortable in her own skin, Nigella Lawson represents an army of women who realise that there is more to life than what the weekly rags deem the perfect ‘bikini body.’
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Post by Emma Case
Emma is a Fashion Marketing and Communications graduate who currently works as Sample Co-ordinator at a fashion trimmings company, she also works freelance as a fashion writer at Yogoego.com. Catch Emma on Twitter @EmmaOffDuty
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Editor Charlotte Gush, on Twitter @CavaCharlotte
ADVANCED STYLE
Advanced Style: Age and Beauty on Nowness.com.
Here at All Walks we have been loving photographer Ari Seth Cohen’s blog Advanced Style for a little while now. Showcasing women who have honed their style credentials for generations, it is a wonderful resource of creativity and inspiration. The style of Cohen's subjects is often high-maintainance but it seems effortless at the same time. As several of the fashionistas in the video point out, they don't care what other people think of their style; they dress for themselves and to make themselves happy. Perhaps it is this confidence, and the drive to always be themselves, which makes them such style icons. In this respect, they too are icons of self-belief, wellbeing and happiness, and we can all learn something from them.
The short film, above, is by Lithuanian-born video maker Lina Plioplyte, who often shoots catwalk films for Nylon TV. This particular film, exclusive to Nowness, allows the viewer an insight into the stylish lives of the women featured on the Advanced Style blog.
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Post by Charlotte Gush
Charlotte is the Online Commissioning Editor for All Walks, based away from the London office in Manchester. She has previously spent 6 months working for All Walks at the London office as a social media, marketing and production intern. Charlotte writes a fashion, street style and personal style blog, 'CAVACOMA.com', with a dedicated Facebook fanpage here, and a Twitter account @CavaCharlotte
THE CHANGING FACE OF BLACK BEAUTY
The fashion industry plays a significant role in the way in which black women and most importantly, black beauty is defined. As an impressionable teenager I recall struggling to deal with the lack of black models in mainstream fashion magazines. It was frustrating to see yet another model styled to look androgynous or repeatedly featured in tribal/ethnic/sport inspired fashion stories. It would be fair to say that this had an impact on the way that I, as a black woman, viewed myself.Occasionally fashion magazines dare to be different and step away from the usual stereotypes; the April 2011 edition of ELLE UK is a good example.
The 12 page spread could easily have featured a caucasian model as there is no reference to the ethnicity of the model. What strikes me is that the images show a model, as apposed to a ‘black model’. On this occasion we are given the opportunity to view beautiful clothes, on an equally beautiful model - who just happens to be black.
It is all too easy to focus on the negative aspects of the fashion industry but it is important to acknowledge steps in the right direction. Hopefully ELLE UK will continue to promote diversity within their magazine.
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Post by Emma Case
Emma is a fashion marketing graduate, who works as a Sample Coordinator for a trimmings supplier.
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All images from Elleuk.com
Editor Charlotte Gush, on Twitter @CavaCharlotte
ALTERNATIVE FASHION WEEK - WE’LL MISS YOU THIS EASTER
Think ‘fashion week’ and your mind may immediately start to draw the following picture; stick thin and racially non-diverse models, prohibitively expensive couture and an experience only for the very elite.These negatives are anathema to Alternative Fashion Week, which takes over the very nerve centre of London's art district, Spitalfields Market, for one week over Easter, most years.
Attracting 10,000 visitors to see 15 shows a day, Alternative Fashion Week is a hub of creativity and diversity, which will be sorely missed this year as the event takes a break.
The models used for Alternative Fashion Week are mainly sourced from a dedicated 6-week course that runs prior to the event. “It's free, so it's really accessible and takes place once a week with a really top choreographer. We get a very diverse group of enthusiastic models, all shapes, sizes, races and sexes”, say organisers.
Alternative Fashion Week is taking a break in 2011, but will be back in 2012, more eccentric and wonderfully diverse than ever.
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Post by Erin Cardiff
Erin is a second year journalism student at the University of Sheffield. She is currently applying for masters courses in New York to study magazine journalism. Erin has two blogs, Frocking Hell and Erin Actually . You can find her on Twitter @erincardiff.
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Images courtesy of: Richard Thompson, Rishi Mullett-Sadones, Oleg Katchinski
Editor Charlotte Gush, on Twitter @CavaCharlotte