The world's most famous fashion magazine, the UK Parliament and a fashion research academic have this past month made high-profile announcements relating to diversity and body confidence. The Vogue Health Initiative, the first of its kind in the high-fashion magazine industry, has been drawn up in order to "encourage a healthier approach to body image within the industry". Ben Barry, the CEO of a diverse model agency in Canada, has published research showing that women's buying intentions (how likely they are to buy something) are positively affected when they see models who more closely represent them in terms of age, size and ethnicity. Also published this month, the report of the All Party Parliamentary Group (APPG) on Body Image gives important context to the movement for improving body confidence by exploring the far-reaching effects of negative body image on the UK population.
All Walks co-founders Caryn Franklin and Debra Bourne have been regularly attending the APPG on Body Image, led by Lib Dem MP Jo Swinson, at Westminster. The group's recently published report gives an overview of the state of body image and body confidence in the UK today, revealing that negative body image is widespread and that it can have hugely detrimental effects on an individual's personal and social relationships, including at work and in schools. Here are a selection of the report's key findings:
60% of adults report that they feel ashamed of the way they look
70% of adult women and 40% of adult men report that they have felt pressure from television and magazines to have the 'perfect body'
34% of adolescent boys and 49% girls have been on a diet to change their body shape or to loose weight
It is estimated that roughly two thirds of adults suffer from negative body image
42% of girls and young women feel that the most negative part of being female is the pressure to look attractive
A third of men would sacrifice a year of their life to achieve their ideal body
It is in this context then, that we can see how important it is that a healthy, diverse body image is promoted. The fashion industry, with it's great power to communicate to the public about their appearance, has often been guilty of promoting a very narrow body image ideal that excludes the majority of the population; a fact that Anna Wintour, the Editor in Chief of American Vogue, noted in her Editor's Letter on the initiative: "For an industry that should be about empowering women of all shapes, sizes and ages, too often the image of attractiveness it has projected has been entirely at odds with that message."
The Vogue Health Initiative then, is an acceptance of the responsibility that comes with their power, as Alexandra Shulman of British Vogue acknowledges in her June Editor's Letter, in which she states: "As one of the fashion industry's most powerful voices, Vogue has a unique opportunity to engage with relevant issues where we feel we can make a difference." Jonathan Newhouse, the international chairman of Conde Nast, expanded on the reasoning behind the initiative, stating that:
"Vogue believes that good health is beautiful. Vogue editors around the world want the magazines to reflect their commitment to the health of the models who appear on the pages and the wellbeing of their readers."
The Vogue Health Initiative, signed by all 19 international editors, is made up of the following six key points:
We will not knowingly work with models under the age of 16 or who appear to have an eating disorder. We will work with models who, in our view, are healthy and help to promote a healthy body image.
We will ask agents not to knowingly send us underage girls and casting directors to check IDs when casting shoots, shows and campaigns.
We will help to structure mentoring programmes where more mature models are able to give advice and guidance to younger girls, and we will help to raise industry-wide awareness through education, as has been integral to the Council of Fashion Designers of America Health Initiative.
We will encourage producers to create healthy backstage working conditions, including healthy food options and a respect for privacy. We will encourage casting agents not to keep models unreasonably late.
We encourage designers to consider the consequences of unrealistically small sample sizes of their clothing, which limits the range of women who can be photographed in their clothes, and encourages the use of extremely thin models.
We will be ambassadors for the message of healthy body image.
In order to achieve point number five, Vogue may want to present the research findings of Ben Barry to designers reluctant to alter their sample sizes.
Ben Barry, founder and CEO of a diverse model agency in Canada, has recently published the findings of his academic research into how body and beauty representation in fashion advertising affects a woman's likelihood to buy a product. It has often been assumed by the marketing industry that a woman's insecurity about not looking like the model in the advert has led her to buying the product in order to become closer to that ideal. Ben Barry's ground breaking research proves that this simply isn't the case. The author explains:
"My study found that women increased their purchase intentions by more than 200 percent when the models in the mock ads were their size. In the subgroup over size 6 [UK 10], women increased their purchase intentions by a dramatic 300 percent when they saw curvier models. Conversely, when women saw models who didn’t reflect their size, they decreased their purchase intentions by 60 percent, and women over size 6 dropped their purchase intentions by 76 percent.
My results weren’t limited to the issue of size. Consumers increased their purchase intentions by over 175 percent when they saw models who reflected their age; in particular, women over the age of 35 increased their purchase intentions by 200 percent when they saw older models. When models didn’t reflect their age, consumers decreased their purchase intentions by 64 percent. Furthermore, black consumers were 1.5 times more likely to purchase a product advertised by a black model.
When one mature woman saw an older model, she explained: “[The model] does more than make me feel beautiful; she inspires me to go out and get this dress and celebrate my beauty.”
It is clear that the celebration and promotion of diverse body and beauty ideals in the fashion industry and beyond makes sense not for ethical reasons alone, but for business reasons too. It is no longer a tough call to do the right thing, it is a no-brainer that will hopefully now be realised across the industry at an accelerated pace.
Charlotte Gush is a freelance fashion writer, blogger and editor, as well as the Online Commissioning Editor for All Walks.
She has previously spent 6 months working for All Walks at the London office as a social media, marketing and production intern.
Charlotte writes a fashion, street style and personal style blog, CAVACOMA.com, with a dedicated Facebook fanpage here, and a Twitter account @CavaCharlotte
For the very first time, the issue of body confidence and its relation to the media has been discussed at the United Nations. The 2012 UN Commission on the Status of Women (CSW) was held between the 27th February and March 9th, and, on the topic of body image and the media, both the UK Minister for Equalities Lynne Featherstone MP and writer and psychoanalyst Dr Susie Orbach addressed the commission.
Whilst accepting that issues such as poverty, starvation, violence and FGM [female genital mutilation] are at the top of the agenda, Featherstone explained that we are facing a new global crisis where huge numbers of women "feel compelled to conform to a distorted vision of beauty," resulting in "low levels of self esteem, lack of self worth, anxiety, depression and in extreme cases, high levels of eating disorders and greater demand for cosmetic surgery."
Dr Orbach poignantly compared these issues to other acts of violence against women internationally:
"The west congratulates itself on its distance from Eastern practices of foot binding which constrained and limited women. It fails to see the links between toe operations carried out now to enable women to fit into the latest 4 inch high heels.
The west smugly criticises FGM while sanctioning labiaplasty and the remaking of the genital lips which has become a growth area for cosmetic surgeons.
The west makes appeals about famine victims in the southern hemisphere but has failed to notice the voluntarily insane food practices that exist in their own countries.
The west hasn’t noticed that these are forms of violence and constraint for women."
Featherstone emphasized the importance of challenging the "culture of conformity" which suggests to women that, in order to be considered beautiful, valuable even, they must be "young, white, skinny, with a perfect air-brushed face and a perfect photo-shopped body." The Minister explained the importance of All Walks' aim to widen the definition of beauty to include all shapes, sizes, ages and ethnicities, as well as the need to "help people to recognise that their value goes beyond just their physical appearance."
Dr Orbach likened the need to take on the industries that promote body anxiety for their own gain to historic battles with the tobacco industry. She explained that:
"The beauty companies, the fashion houses, the diet companies, the food conglomerates who also of course own the diet companies, the exercise and fitness industry, the pharmaceutical industry and the cosmetic surgery industry combine together, perhaps not purposefully or conspiratorially, to create a climate in which girls and women come to feel that their bodies are not ok. ... They are mining bodies as though they were a commodity like coal or gold."
So, the media constantly bombards us with unrealistic images of 'the body beautiful' and this is leading to widespread image anxiety, but what can be done to lessen the negative impact? Featherstone described an education pack being used in schools across the UK:
"Kids look at images of celebrities before and after photoshopping and they are asked to bring photos of people they admire. They all bring photos of their parents, who are all shapes and sizes. Through this teaching pack, children understand they don’t need to conform to try and look a certain way, just because of the media messaging they receive."
The pack has received extensive coverage in the UK press, as well as in Columbia, Australia, and Taiwan, and Featherstone extended an invitation to all other nations who would like to share knowledge and resources on this issue. She also announced the upcoming launch of a similar pack for parents.
Here at All Walks we are so glad that Lynne and Susie, both friends of our campaign, are taking these issues to the global political stage. Our bombardment with images from across the media promoting such a narrow view of beauty is a particularly modern phenomenon, and we will need to develop new ways of dealing with its negative consequences. We are heartened that such inspiring women are making it a global priority to develop solutions to ensure positive change for the future.
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Words by Charlotte Gush
Images courtesy of the Home Office
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Charlotte Gush is a freelance fashion writer, blogger and editor, as well as the Online Commissioning Editor for All Walks.
She has previously spent 6 months working for All Walks at the London office as a social media, marketing and production intern.
Charlotte writes a fashion, street style and personal style blog, CAVACOMA.com, with a dedicated Facebook fanpage here, and a Twitter account @CavaCharlotte
There was a time when I used to have a very naive view of the gym and of women on the treadmill running aimlessly to lose weight, seemingly never being happy with themselves, or men standing in front of the mirror pumping iron, like something from the Victorian age, and looking upon the slender male as a joke.
At that time I didn't realise that my insecurities came from a darker place of non-acceptance of my body, having never fit into the media's stereotype of an aspirational male figure with the slender frame I was given at birth. However, over time and years of contributing towards the creation of images for fashion media, through styling and my education gained through working with All Walks Beyond the Catwalk, I really started to embrace my body.
As time went on, I started to go to the gym for other reasons, to de-stress my mind and to be healthy, given all the work I was doing sitting at a desk, working on productions and blogging. The gym had given me something to do that was unrelated to fashion and now I can safely say that I am in a very happy place with my body and I enjoy watching my body develop and having the ability to do new things through the changes I make to my training - plus, all the extra energy it gives me is fantastic!
Through lots of emails, tweets and even 'meets,' All Walks has been asked a number of times what our views on the male aspect of fashion are, in relation to body image and many other questions. Through this new feature on the blog, I aim to deliver a male perspective, as someone who works in the industry and also aims to look after their body. I will look at campaigns I have worked on in the past, as well current men's fashion campaigns, creating a regular space for All walks readers to engage in the topic of body confidence across all ages, races, sizes and genders.
Arriving at the House of Commons in force, Wednesday 1st February 2012 saw a brigade of well-informed and well-heeled women gather to view award-winning documentary Miss Representation and to debate the under-representation of women in positions of power.
Guests at the All Walks screening of Miss Representation in the House of Commons photographer Annabel Staff
Directed and narrated by filmmaker and actress Jennifer Siebel Newsom, Miss Representation exposes the way in which mainstream media contributes to the detrimental portrayal of women in positions of influence, and the negative knock-on effects this has on our female (and male) youth. Speaking from the screening, Debra Bourne observed the significance of All Walks at the event.
“With the lack of female role models reflected in our general media, women often look to fashion for a narrative on femininity. The work of All Walks Beyond the Catwalk to promote a broader range of beauty and body ideals in age, size and skin tone is, therefore, essential”
Colleen Harris speaks at the Miss Representation debate photographer Annabel Staff
Chaired by Jo Swinson, Liberal Democrat MP, the screening was followed by a panel discussion with novelist Malorie Blackman, Minister for Equalities Lynne Featherstone, Communications and Diversity Adviser Colleen Harris and Writer and Psychotherapist Susie Orbach. Exploring society's obsession with body image ideals, the panel of knowledgeable and inspirational women spoke determinedly on topics including female empowerment, leadership and media change; leaving the audience undoubtedly affected and empassioned.
Pledge to represent the change you want to see for women & girls, sign up to the Miss Representation campaign pledge.
Minister for Equalities Lynne Featherstone MP (center) on the debate panel photographer Annabel Staff
All images are by our resident photographer Annabel Staff who can be found on Twitter on @photosbyannabel
Catch up on Lynne Featherstone’s Huffington Post blog: Charmaine Ayden is a Fashion Communication graduate from Northumbria University. An avid admirer of all things ‘glossy’, she set her heart on a career in Fashion Journalism from a young age.
Undertaking work placements with Vogue, WSGN, Asos, Drapers and Glamour Magazine, Charmaine is currently working as Copy and Features Writer for Brownsfashion.com.
Check out Charmaine’s blog The Good is the Beautiful and find her on Twitter @CharmaineAyden