Beauty, retouched: Is natural beauty just not beautiful enough?
The 'retouching' of imagery is all around us; the process is used to 'perfect' most, if not every, photograph within the media. Natural beauty is often disguised by the detailed manipulation of ‘imperfections’ during the post-production process, producing a glamorous illusion of many icons in our culture. Magazine editors have argued that the reasoning behind retouching stems from the reading audience wanting a perfected look, which they in turn aim to portray in there day-to-day lives. They also say that readers know that the photographs they see are altered and, therefore, they do not need to be labeled as such.
This poses the question, ‘Is re-touching necessary?’ To the extent that it is currently used, I personally do not think it is. Being bombarded with images of ‘perfect’ super-toned bodies and flawless skin can, and does, give a distorted image of beauty which many women feel pressure to live up to. But look at these images of Madonna and Angelina Jolie. They are beautiful already, before the retouching. In my opinion, ‘flaws and blemishes’ should be celebrated, as they create individuality; the essence of true beauty.
The images above show the kind of retouching that most editorial and advertising images undergo. They give us an idea of how much work goes into post-production and how manipulated the final images are. Images which give their viewers an un-realistic image of beauty to aspire to.
For Dove's 2003 "Campaign for Real Beauty" they produced a short film called ‘Evolution’ which provides a refreshing view of the truth behind the image; stripping back the make up, undoing the slimming processes and showing the blemishes of reality. Once uploaded, the advert was viewed over 40,000 times in its first day, 1,700,000 times within a month of its upload and 12,000,000 times within its first year. Here is one of the many Youtube videos of the film:
Tell us what you think about retouching in the media on the All Walks Beyond the Catwalk Facebook page.
***
Post by Zina Graber
Zina is a fashion styling student from Cornwall who has a huge interest in celebrating the female form and individuality through styling. I want to be part of changing women’s negative perceptions of themselves so I have recently created a campaign that promotes global style and fashion diversity. The idea is to collect photos of individuals around the world, no matter who you are and showcase you’re style to the world. Check out "What Ya Wearing World?" and find Zina on Twitter @whatyawearingw
***
Editor Charlotte Gush, on Twitter @CavaCharlotte
Spanish Parliament fight against eating disorders
Spanish political group the Convergence and Union (CIU) has presented a proposal to the Government, urging them to take action against eating disorders such as anorexia and bulimia in Spain.The initiative proposes reinforcement of the computer offenses investigation team, to deal with unlawful website content relating to eating disorders. The proposal also requests that websites display the owner's contact details, in order to identify those responsible and eliminate any harmful content.
Another important point of the proposal is to regulate catwalk models. They ask the industry not to hire extremely thin models and to redefine fashion sizes.
This proposal has been developed to deal with the increasing number of eating disorders in Spain and to consider the social circumstances that surround them.
CIU maintains that we have created a "social stereotype of extreme thinness linked with beauty and success." In their opinion, this stereotype is "supported by magazines, advertisements and models, sending a deceitful message about diets and inviting women to loose weight and focus [negatively] on the body."
I believe this is an important step in making the Spanish government aware of the need to deal with this growing problem. The debate should start now, and professionals from different fields should work together in order to find the best solutions, and in some cases regulations, for the issues discussed here.
***
Post by Maria Llanos
Our voice from Spain! After graduating in Business Administration, María worked in marketing at L’oréal for almost 3 years. After this period, she decided to develop her creativity by studying an MA in Design Studies at Central Saint Martins, where she developed her thesis around the evolution of the ideal female beauty concept and got to know All Walks. Currently, María is working at a Communication agency in Madrid. Check out all of Maria Llanos' posts for All Walks, and find her on Twitter @merillanos.
***
Editor Charlotte Gush, on Twitter @CavaCharlotte
H&M’s SUMMER MEN!
I found H&M;’s last advertising campaign very refreshing; not only for the light and beach portrayed but for the male models they chose to wear the swimmear designs.The models are Andrés Velencoso, one of the most famous Spanish models, and Ben Hill, an American model ranked amongst the top ten world models. Both are 33 years old and have worked for H&M; before.
In the campaign images, Andrés and Ben appear with hair chest and, in Ben’s case, with some grey hair. What I like about this is that they look more natural and healthy than many of the models we are used to seeing lately. We shouldn’t forget that the images are clearly fashion-oriented; the location is perfect and the models are extremely handsome, but they look confident, masculine and quite relaxed.
In my opinion, the issue of thinness and youth is impacting the male model industry more and more, with well-known models losing weight – like Jon Kortajarena - and fashion houses and magazines choosing young and androgynous models, such as this model on the cover of Japanese Voge Homme:
We can already see that many male models face the same pressure over their weight as female models do. This is worrying as men have, until now, appeared to be less susceptible to pressure to be ultra-skinny, but the more pressure on models to be this thin, the more pressure 'normal' men may feel to look unhealthily thin .
***
Post by Maria Llanos
Our voice from Spain! After graduating in Business Administration, María worked in marketing at L’oréal for almost 3 years. After this period, she decided to develop her creativity by studying an MA in Design Studies at Central Saint Martins, where she developed her thesis around the evolution of the ideal female beauty concept and got to know All Walks. Currently, María is working at a Communication agency in Madrid. Check out all her posts here, and on Twitter @merillanos.
***
Editor Charlotte Gush, on Twitter @CavaCharlotte
Model body: proportion london’s diverse mannequins
For many, the shop mannequin is the first point of real contact that they have with a design, which they may previously have seen on the runway or in the media, and this experience informs how they may wear the garment.
Window displays have been a integral part of the shopping experience ever since the late 1950's; from enticing the customer into the store, to helping some garments take shape and show the consumer what the garment is to look like on the human form, encouraging the customer to try it on.
Proportion London, who specialize in mannequins and bust forms, have supported All Walks Beyond the Catwalk in our most recent project 'SNAPPED,' which was held at the National Portrait Gallery, by kindly loaning a collection of vintage inspired mannequins. Click here to see the mannequins in 'action.'
All Walks recently took a trip to Proportion London in order to see some of their latest mannequins and bust forms. What has got us excited is the range of different skin tones of the mannequins and the company's positive approach to ethnic diversity. Tanya Reynolds, creative director of Proportion London, says she believes that there is:
"[a restricted] range of skin colours on the catwalks, and when customers come into us they want to emulate the human being using wigs and make up, but they also look for skin tones that then tie in with their shows. So far, too often we don't see a diversity of skin tones, especially in the darker colours or the more oriental skin tones"
Because of this, Tanya decided to make a change and hired a colour specialist who was researching how different tones appear under different lights. After testing hundreds of different colours they developed about 30 paint shades from very pale to very dark skin tones in order to make their mannequins available in a selection of more realistic and diverse skin tones. Even better, if a customer requests a tone that they do not yet cater for, Proportion London will create one especially, so there are no limits on the skin tones available.
During our collaboration with Proportion London for 'SNAPPED', our event at the National Portrait Gallery, Tanya kindly allowed me to interview her for a recording which was played in the gallery's Brown Room for the one night only spectacular. I was particularly impressed by Tanya's description of how make up is applied to the mannequins in order to create different features:
"if we have been successful in sculpting an ambiguous face my make up artist will be able to change the appearance of the face to emulate the number of different cultural differences, when the Make-up artist comes in to paint he paints in oils, however, it wouldn't be like a oil painting"
Elaborating further about how the mannequin's initially ambiguous face takes shape, developing a truly individual look, Tanya explained that:
"sometimes the mannequins do not have eye sockets so he [the make-up artist] determines where the eyes are, how large they are, and also what shape and size the lips are... - all of this will be selected against the reference of what the skin shade is"
From my interview with Tanya, I now have an understanding of what Proportion London is doing in order to create diversity in the fashion industry, not through the live models on the catwalk, but through the mannequins that sell clothes to us in the stores. I hope now you too will be able to look at these mannequins and appreciate the true artistry that has gone into creating an ethnically diverse range of looks, through hair and make up, from mannequins that were originally plain and identical.
Here at All Walks we are very excited by what Proportion London are doing in order to create diversity, not just through the models who wear the clothes, but the mannequins that sell the clothes in shop windows. We are now able to appreciate the true art that goes into making mannequins appeal to diverse forms of female beauty, though the hair and make up used. Organisations like Proportion London are shaping the future of diverse beauty in fashion and are certainly breaking the mold in their artistic and creative vision.
***
Post and all images by Michael Williamson
Michael is a designer, stylist, blogger and an integral member of the All Walks team, having been with us from the very beginning. Check out his blog, Safety-Pin Charm, to keep your finger on the pulse of all things fashion - especially london based. Follow Michael on Twitter @mwfrost
***
Editor Charlotte Gush, on Twitter @CavaCharlotte
SLINK: THE NEW 14+ FASHION GLOSSY
SLiNK magazine is a new online fashion publication aimed at women who are size 14 and above. Editor, Rivkie Baum, trained as a designer and worked as a stylist and freelance journalist before moving into personal shopping, and then a retail-based styling role for plus size women. It was this experience that opened her eyes to the gap in the market for a plus size magazine with the same aspirational qualities as the major industry glossies:
“I became aware that lots of plus size women didn’t even pay attention to trends as there was no media format that showed it to them in an obtainable yet aspirational format. Plus size is a continuous hot topic in the media, yet it still carries so many negative connotations. I wasn’t sure how the industry would feel about a plus size glossy, but so far, it has nearly all been incredibly positive."
SLiNK magazine uses fashion illustration to explore the latest trends, rather than traditional catwalk shots which don’t fit within the ethos of the brand. This allows the magazine to be a platform for up and coming illustration talent.
Aside from fashion, SLiNK covers beauty, hair and makeup, with top tips from industry proffessionals such as Lee Stafford on summer hair trends and Andrew Gallimore ‘Dior’s UK Ambassador’ on lipstick colours. There are also sections on travel, exhibitions, theatre, film and book reviews, and for the second issue SLiNK will be adding technology, music and television sections. Finally SLiNK has a recipe section run by the Head Chef of the Flemings Hotel in Mayfair, London.
All Walks fully supports SLiNK magazine as we share the view that fashion can be just as aspirational on a range of female shapes, sizes, ages and ethnicities, not just on the 'standard' size models usually seen in fashion glossies. We both believe that fashion can be a positive force in women's lives, as a way of expressing individuality, creativity and personality, or even as a way to boost confidence. We both strongly believe that fashion can, and should be, inclusive, allowing women of all shapes, sizes, ages and ethnicities to celebrate their bodies through the clothes they wear.
Check out the first issue using the reader below, or directly on the SLiNK website:
***
Post by Charlotte Gush
Charlotte is the Online Commissioning Editor for All Walks, based away from the London office in Manchester. She has previously spent 6 months working for All Walks at the London office as a social media, marketing and production intern. Charlotte writes a fashion, street style and personal style blog, 'CAVACOMA.com', with a dedicated Facebook fanpage here, and a Twitter account @CavaCharlotte.
Caryn Franklin visits Edinburgh’s “ALL WALKS” diverse design show
As colleges gear up to show their latest collections at Graduate Fashion Week, we at All Walks can reveal that diversity is firmly on the agenda.Students at Edinburgh College of Art have been working with All Walks on a project that replaces inanimate tailor's dummies with real and opinionated women, who give the students crucial feedback about their designs.
After all, training on a lifeless dummy and a model who is paid to stay silent (both presenting only one body type, and without movement) is not a rounded training, we say!
The fact is that all women, apart from the odd catwalk model, have ordinary bodies and design students must understand the needs of ordinary women if they are to make a lucrative business; and as these great designs show, creativity is not compromised. Emotionally considerate design is possible, and working on a model with a realistic body shape is a necessity.
Why? Well, as Mal Burkinshaw - course leader at Edinburgh College of Art, who has created this project with us - says, it has made a huge impact on the learning of the students.
Mortwenna Darwel, one of the students, agrees, "I gained a much better understanding of the relationship between real women and fashion."
Jennifer Alexander adds: "I feel I've learned a lot from fittings and communicating with my All Walks muse. From this project onwards, I will take into consideration who I design for and how my garment will make the person feel."
We'd like to thank all of the tutors at Edinburgh who have worked hard to embrace diversity by introducing a range of bodies and ages into the training, in order to help students understand the true meaning of emotionally considerate design and practice.
***
Post by Caryn Franklin, All Walks co-founder
***
Credits: 1. Pam Craig wears blue dress by Shauni Douglas. 2. Eileen Reilly wears green dress by Isabella Lyginou. 3. Sarah Saunders wears red dress by Laura Jayne Nevis, and 4. Collette Nelson wears maroon and pink dress by Louis Anderson Bythell
***
Editor Charlotte Gush, on Twitter @CavaCharlotte
The Ever Changing Female ‘Ideal’: 1960 - 2010 (part 2)
I completely love everything about the 1960’s, the fashion, the music, the art and the entire zeitgeist of the decade. However, the curvy and glamorous ideal of previous decades changed suddenly to a preference for slim, boyish frames. Female ideals consisted of very slight, slim figures, with short pixie crops and heavy eye make up. The fashion encouraged women to look like young girls, with short shift dresses showing off full legs, and boxed jackets not allowing the waist to be cinched in. Most women wanted a boyish frame with fashion models becoming slim for the first time since the 1920’s female ideal. The contrast from 1950-1960’s was evidently huge and could be considered one of the biggest changes in the ever-changing 'ideal' of the female form throughout the decades.
The 1970’s again promoted the female body ideal as slim and slender. This image shows a 1970’s fashion model, showing less skin and flesh than a 1960’s model but still with an innocent look. However, the late seventies allowed women to dress with freedom and with maxi dresses and flares being high on the fashion front, women were able to cover many parts of their body with voluminous clothing and long tousled hair. The unkempt look was popular and 'bed-head' hair was seen for the first time, in the decade of peace and love!
The 1980’s female ideal often celebrated the legs, with very high cut swimwear and underwear. Shoulder pads were worn to emphasise the new power that some women had in their careers.
The 1990s made women want to look healthy. With toned, muscled slender bodies as the ideal female shape, women took exercise and health very seriously. Women wanted to be ‘girl next door’ character, with a natural and fresh appearance. This gave women a chance to work out alongside men at the gym and take sports seriously for the first time; the 1990s saw women want to be gym bunnies!
In the 'naught-ies', the size zero issue has become prominent and the debate is long from being over. Skinny models are seen all over the catwalks and many 'average' women aspire to be as skinny as possible, with this issue sometimes taking over their lives. Women are bombarded with diets, fitness regimes and celebrities showcasing the skinny 'ideal'. Today we are trying to tackle the pressure on women to be skinny, emphasizing that they should be able to celebrate their body no matter what shape, size, age or ethnicity they may be.
Join us in showing the decade that we’re happy with our bodies and that we want to celebrate body diversity!
***
Post by Zina Graber
Zina is a fashion styling student from Cornwall who has a huge interest in celebrating the female form and individuality through styling. I want to be part of changing women’s negative perceptions of themselves so I have recently created a campaign that promotes global style and fashion diversity. The idea is to collect photos of individuals around the world, no matter who you are and showcase you’re style to the world. Check out "What Ya Wearing World?" and find Zina on Twitter @whatyawearingw
***
Images linked to source
Editor Charlotte Gush, on Twitter @CavaCharlotte
The Ever Changing Female ‘Ideal’: 1900 - 1950 (part 1)
This image portrays the female beauty ideal in the early 1900s and the decades previous. The curvaceous and soft lines of her body represent the freedom of expression and the true, honest beauty of the female body. Women with this weight on their body nowadays could feel negatively about it due to today’s ideals, however, back then it was celebrated to the highest degree. I really love this image showing her beauty in full glory with her admiring herself and others looking on.
This 1910 image of a female beauty shows the fashion for the corseted wasp waist. The corset creates a definite hourglass figure through the use of a heavy-duty corset normally made using whalebone. The corset would be tied so tight that it even could damage the internal organs of the women and could often leave her breathless. My personal opinion of this look is the discomfort would outweigh the overall appeal of the wasp waist.
The 1920’s female ideal completely changed from the years previous. Women could bin their corsets and start to celebrate looser fitting outfits with a boyish feel. Hair was cut short to represent the freedom of expression during the roaring twenties. Women with boyish figures could at last be celebrated for being the beauty ideal and dresses were made with low waist lines to accentuate long legs. Beading was used on many garments to add weight and increase the movement of the fabric. Women could for the first time be as comfotable as a man. I love the 1920’s female ideal; the glitz and glamour of everyday outfits would make anyone feel good about themselves!
This image show a bunch of lovely 1930’s young women, showing off on the beach. Look how happy they look in swimwear in the height of summer. This era allowed the female ideal shape to become again curvaceous. Hemlines dropped again and allowed femininity to take pride of place in many outfits. Florals and girly colours were used to showcase the divide between men and women, where the 1920’s seemed to blur the gender through dressing more. This more curvaceous look really looks great and a lot of 1930’s inspired clothes can be seen on the catwalk and in the high street, which is great! Water for Elephants, a recent film by Francis Lawrence showcases 1930’s fashion perfectly in such amazing costume! Go check it out!
5- 1940 women were sexualised and in full femininity. Curves, legs, breasts, full make up, glamour hair and pin up style looks were popular. The female ideal was sexy, full figured, hourglass shaped and glamorous day and night. Perfection was key and women had the opportunity to try many newly introduced beauty products such as max factor pancake foundation, liquid silk stockings and pillar-box red lipstick. This look is also always available now in mainstream fashion and looks great on every shape, everyone loves a bit of glamour from time to time.
6- The 1950’s female ideal is basically an exaggerated 1940’s one. The waist was even more emphasised and hair and make up was flawless. The glamour icons such as Marilyn Monroe, Audrey Hepburn and Sophia Loren reined as style icons giving women aspirations to be glamorous. The glamour idea solely stemmed from Hollywood icons and film stars allowing women who didn’t fit the ‘ideal’ feel very excluded and insecure. The pressure to live up the ideal was tough and demanding, comparing this to today’s ‘slim ideal’ some people would say it’s a similar pressure felt today by some women.
***
Post by Zina Graber
Zina is a fashion styling student from Cornwall who has a huge interest in celebrating the female form and individuality through styling. I want to be part of changing women’s negative perceptions of themselves so I have recently created a campaign that promotes global style and fashion diversity. The idea is to collect photos of individuals around the world, no matter who you are and showcase you’re style to the world. Check out "What Ya Wearing World?" and find Zina on Twitter @whatyawearingw
***
Images linked to source
Editor Charlotte Gush, on Twitter @CavaCharlotte
Glamour Espana: My most beautiful flaw
When I read the title of the article, ?My most beautiful flaw? in the May issue of Spanish Glamour magazine, I was shocked to see the word flaw related to something positive. I kept on reading and realized that the article was more an illustrated report, featuring five models with special physical characteristics – usually considered to be flaws – which, in their cases, made a positive differentiation in their careers.
The cases portrayed are the plus size model Jennie Runk, the model Verena – whose eyes are different colors, the black albino model Diandra Forrest, the Italian model Amanda Lopes - who has a protuberant nose, and Sabine, a black model who keeps her natural afro hairstyle.
In my opinion, Glamour’s approach is an interesting attempt to show diverse beauty. However, not all the images are equally surprising or rare, and I don’t believe that keeping natural afro hair or not getting surgery on a Mediterranean nose should be considered big differences inside the fashion industry.
Nevetheless, I recognize that these women send a positive message about uniqueness by feeling good about the differences that make them special. I only hope we can see them soon on Glamour’s fashion shoots.
***
Post by Maria Llanos
Our voice from Spain! After graduating in Business Administration, María worked in marketing at L’oréal for almost 3 years. After this period, she decided to develop her creativity by studying an MA in Design Studies at Central Saint Martins, where she developed her thesis around the evolution of the ideal female beauty concept and got to know All Walks. Currently, María is working at a Communication agency in Madrid. Check out all her posts here, and on Twitter @merillanos.
*** All images courtesy of Glamour Espana
Editor Charlotte Gush, on Twitter @CavaCharlotte
Look’s curvy supermodel: Clothes modelling for real women, by real women?
The average British woman is a size 14. Yet the average model, the very platform for showcasing the clothes that 'everyday' women are going to buy, is a considerably smaller size 6. Surely, there’s something not right here? How can we judge fashion when we know that it’s not going to look the same on us as it does on the model? Attempting to close the gap is LOOK magazine, who recently embarked on a mission to recruit a curvy supermodel to star in an editorial shoot between their coveted pages. Potential applicants had to be a size 12 or above.A team of fashion insiders, including LOOK editor Ali Hall, and plus size model Crystal Renn scoured the country for a girl whose curves could steal any runway show. Nineteen year-old Lyndsay O’Hagan was announced as the winner during London Fashion Week.
So, is the future of fashion a little more voluptuous? Can we expect to see more 'real women' with 'real' figures modelling clothes for us? One thing is for sure: those first few steps Lyndsay took on to the catwalk were significant, they were promising, and they were definitely a long time coming.
***
Post by Erin Cardiff
Erin is a second year journalism student at the University of Sheffield. She is currently applying for masters courses in New York to study magazine journalism. Erin has two blogs, Frocking Hell and Erin Actually . You can find her on Twitter @erincardiff.
***
Editor Charlotte Gush, on Twitter @CavaCharlotte
ALL WALKS DESIGNER WILLIAM TEMPEST & RHIANNA ON XFACTOR & Naomi PART 2:
For Regular Readers you may remember when we posted about Rhianna wearing William tempest on X-FACTOR and showed a Link to the video, If not and you do want to go back to that Post here is the link: HERE well there is MORE to the story as we found out yesterday when All Walks was interviewing one of our models we used for SNAPPED RANKIN shoot Naomi Shimada with Co-Founder Caryn Franklin. Naomi also featured in the video with the dancers instigated the food fight here at All Walks we just loved this: other parts yesterday was beeing tweeted LIVE as she was talking to Caryn Franklin, to discuss her life as a model which can be found on our twitter page: CLICK HERE ALSO you may see from our screen grab but we are on FB too! just join our fan page on links on web. but untill next time we leave you with the sweet sounds of Rhianna looking at William tempest dress and Naomi instigating some devilishly delightful fun The Full story from Naomi of her life as a Model will be able to be herd exclusively at National Portrait Gallery in Febuary 2011 stay tuned for more info here at ALL WALKS BEYOND THE CATWALK report by M.WAll Walks gets some interesting Tweets:
All Walks Co- Founder Debra Bourne Tweets on one of her favorite pieces from this years Frieze exhibition All Walks Designer Hannah Marshall Tweets her gift from RankinAll walks trail for Fashion’s Night out! -go’s NYC: + All Walks – All Talks: Weekly Blog:
All walks trail for Fashion's Night out!
-go's NYC:New York’s Fashion Night Out:
As all the excitement of the London Fashion Night Out dies down the party is just getting
started at the other end of the pond. It’s the New York fashionistas turn to enjoy some
fashion fun as Sep 10 at 6pm marks the start of New York’s Fashion Night Out. There will be
an array of fashion bargains to had with many designers offering discounts throughout the
evening.
Where to check out!
At ‘All Walks’ we realise your dilemma of choosing which stylish boutiques to go and which
designers to visit so we have taken the stress out of your evening by doing all the research
for you. Here are some suggestions to tingle your purse strings before you head out for a
fabulous night.
At Stella McCartney you can catch Selma Blair hosting the evening filled with cocktails and
music. There will also be an appearance from Helena Christensen as she exhibits her work
in-store well worth a visit!