Dir. Mal Burkinshaw on the Centre of Diversity’s First Year
Since the Centre of Diversity launched at Edinburgh College of Art last year, we have achieved much recognition for our work, both nationally and internationally. I was fortunate enough to have a paper selected for the 2012 International Foundation of Fashion Technology Institutes (IFFTI) conference, about the educational delivery of ‘emotionally considerate design’ at ECA, which I presented in person at the Pearl Academy in Jaipur, India.
During ECA's Innovative Learning Week we were delighted to work with UCA Epsom Journalism students. The combined student group took to the streets, and to the Scottish Parliament, protesting for more diversity in fashion design and imagery. The students demonstrated a level of passion for the All Walks philosophy which far surpassed my expectations.
Our 2nd year students collaborated with the Scottish National Galleries to develop a design project which gave historical context to body and beauty diversity. They applied this knowledge to their ‘Fashion and the Muse' project, creating a contemporary collection for models representing a diverse range of body shapes, ages and beauty ideals. The project was showcased during our Edinburgh College of Art Fashion Shows at the university's Playfair Library, Edinburgh.
I am also delighted to be launching a major new academic research project. Academic researchers within the broad discipline of fashion design will work in collaboration with the National Galleries of Scotland (NGS), All Walks Beyond the Catwalk and multi-disciplinary University research programmes to inspire, educate and celebrate diverse body and beauty ideals through innovation-led design and visionary craft skills. Working closely with gallery educators, curators and historians, the project will extract vital research and inspiration from the Reformation to Revolution gallery at the Scottish National Portrait Gallery (SNPG) and the World Class Renaissance collections at the Scottish National Gallery. The Scottish National Portrait Gallery has confirmed approval for the research to be exhibited in a creative showcase, opening at the Scottish National Portrait Gallery in Edinburgh from October 2014 – January 2015.
We have demonstrated that not only should educators be developing the creative brains of our future designers, but they should also be leading new methods of teaching students about the end contexts for their work: the diverse customer. Vitally, the students have embraced the philosophy of designing for diversity and have now started to catalyse these ideas as part of the natural creative process underpinning all of their design work.
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Mal Burkinshaw Director of the All Walks' Centre for Diversity, Edinburgh College of Art See Mal's profile on the Academic Team page. |
BODY CONFIDENCE AWARDS: Celebrating Industry Champions of Diverse Beauty
Today, more than ever before, we face an almost constant bombardment of images, messages and ideals, from the websites we visit, the adverts we see, products we buy and magazines that we read. The representation of the human form delivered to us by these sources has a huge effect on the way we percieve our bodies and our appearances, and when a homogenous vision of the 'ideal' form is presented to us hundreds, even thousands of times a day, it can be very damaging to our body confidence if the way we look differs from this very narrow conception of beauty.
Of course, this phenomenon is a widely acknowledged one and most of us are now well versed in the language of body dismophia, fear and even hatred. It seems now to be a weekly occurance that some brand or other is pulled up by the advertising standards agency for using misleading images, or even by individuals petitioning their favourite magazine or company to represent them - their customer - by celebrating diversity and diverse beauty. Of course, identifying and understanding those instances of media that could be damaging is part of the path toward a brighter, healthier, more diverse future, but it is also hugely important to recognise those who have already followed that path and are pioneering a new way, a better way of communicating what it means to be human.
The inaugural Body Confidence Awards aims to do just that, highlighting the efforts of industry and community thought leaders who are re-writing the rule book on how to communicate in a responsible, considerate way that promotes healthy body and beauty ideals. As All Walks Co-Founder Caryn Franklin remarked to attendees of the ceremony, people in the fashion industry - and in the creative industries generally - genuinely want to promote and celebrate health, happiness and beauty, both inside and out. These awards are an opportunity to show them how it's done, to offer a guide to best practice and to assure them that their efforts will be received joyfully by both their industry colleagues and their customers.
There is another way, a better way, and this is how it's done:
ADVERTISING AWARD
| WINNER | Dove "Growing Up" TV Advert
| THEY SAY |
In 2010, Dove commissioned its biggest global study ever “The Real Truth about Beauty Revisited”. This study revealed some shocking statistics:
• 53% of girls in the UK have avoided certain activities because they feel bad about their looks.
• 22% didn’t go to the beach or pool.
• More than 1 in 5 girls in the UK avoided physical activity or exercise because they feel bad about how they look. Almost the same number avoided shopping.
• 16% didn’t offer an opinion.
• 1 in 10 didn’t go to the doctor.
• Nearly 1 in 5 didn’t go on a date.
To support the brand’s Social Mission, Dove will continue to equip girls with self-esteem education through workshops and the online tools that are available. Dove has reached over 800,000 young people in the UK so far and aims to reach 1 million by the end of 2012 with your help.
Dove will invest a minimum of £250,000 in the provision of self-esteem education in the UK in 2012. If more than 20 million packs are sold, Dove will contribute an additional £10,000 for every 1 million extra units sold in the UK from 26th March 2012 to 15th May 2012.
The self esteem education will be delivered via a 1 hour workshop in schools in partnership with Beat, who will facilitate their delivery, and teachers can apply for teacher training and/or self esteem workshops via the Dove website.
| NOMINEES |
BEAUTY AWARD
| WINNER | Boots No7 ‘Ta Dah’ Range
For their decision to eschew retouching and for celebrating the idea of real beauty.
| THEY SAY |
"No7 has always been a brand committed to making all British women look and feel beautiful. This dedication requires a deep understanding of British women, their thoughts and feelings towards beauty.
What we want to show with the 'Ta-Dah' campaign is a moment in time that all women have, when they know they look and, perhaps more importantly, feel their absolute best."
- Amanda Walker, head of No7
| NOMINEES |
 Illamasqua
|
 Look Good... Feel Better
|
 MAC Cosmetics
|
BROADCAST / PRINT / PUBLISHING AWARD
| WINNER | Caitlin Moran for her book ‘How to be a Woman’
 Caitlin Moran accepts the Publishing Award for her book 'How to be a Woman' at the inaugural Body Confidence Awards, April 2012 (Image, Annabel Staff) |
| NOMINEES |
 Beautiful Magazine
|
 Gok's Teens, The Naked Truth
|
 Guardian Weekend, Fashion For All Ages
|
CAMPAIGNER AWARD
| WINNER | Changing Faces
Changing Faces' Alison Rich accepts the award (Image, Annabel Staff)
| THEY SAY |
Changing Lives| NOMINEES |
We aim to help individuals lead full and satisfying lives. We give practical and emotional support to adults, children and their families. We also provide training, support and advice to professionals in health and education. Find out more about our services for adults and families.
Changing Minds
We aim to transform public attitudes towards people with disfiguring conditions. We promote fair treatment and equal opportunities for all, irrespective of their appearance. We campaign for social change: advocating for more integrated health services; influencing schools and workplaces to create more inclusive environments; and lobbying for anti-discrimination protection and enforcement.
CENTRAL YMCA HEALTH SPORT AND FITNESS AWARD
| WINNER | Virgin Active’s Oomph Campaign
For showing a range of shapes, ages, sizes and ethnicities in their campaign, and for promoting the more intrinsic benefits of being physically active.
| THEY SAY |
"We are thrilled that Virgin Active's Oomph campaign has been recognised by these awards. One of our core beliefs is that the health club industry should be inclusive no matter what gender, age or level of fitness. We pride ourselves on offering something for everyone at the clubs and outside at events such as the Virgin Active London Triathlon."- Steve Dick, Sales and Marketing Director at Virgin Active
| NOMINEES |
 Curves
|
 Dance UK
|
EDUCATION AWARD
| WINNER | ‘Body Image in the Primary School’ by Nicky Hutchinson and Chris Calland
For recognising that there was no material for teachers to use in the classroom to confront body image issues, and for writing an invaluable book allowing schools to deliver high-quality lessons on this topic.
| THEY SAY |
"Children face exposure to the media on a far greater scale than ever before. They watch up to 40,000 adverts every year. Although there are initiatives to address body image with adolescents, we were aware that there was very little available to support younger children. Primary schools have a critical role in helping them develop a healthy body image through positive intervention."- Nicky Hutchinson
"When we watch television or look at magazines with our children we should encourage them to question the images they see. We should reassure our children about their appearance and talk positively about them. It's important not to make negative comments about their weight or over-emphasise the importance of looks. We shouldn't make negative comments about other people's physical appearance or complain about 'fat' or 'ugly' parts of our body in their hearing."- Chris Calland
| NOMINEES |
ALL WALKS BEYOND THE CATWALK FASHION VISIONARY AWARD
| WINNER | Mark Fast, Designer
For using models varying in size, shape and ethnicity in his catwalk shows at London Fashion Week since September 2009.
| THEY SAY |
"I'd like to thank the Body Confidence Awards for acknowledging me. As a designer I care about the women that wear my clothes, and big thanks to All Walks Beyond the Catwalk for their encouragement. It is very important to deliver the technical aspects - a 'look' and a quality of make - but I also want to make each wearer of my clothes feel empowered and affirmed. I want to celebrate women and make them feel good in my clothes."- Mark Fast, fashion designer
| NOMINEES |
 Vivienne Westwood
|
 Giles Deacon
|
MUMSNET AWARD FOR PROMOTING BODY CONFIDENCE IN CHILDREN
Voted for by Mumsnet members
| WINNER | Pink Stinks
| THEY SAY |
"Pinkstinks is a campaign that targets the products, media and marketing that prescribe heavily stereotyped and limiting roles to young girls. We believe that all children – girls and boys - are affected by the ‘pinkification’ of girlhood. Our aim is to challenge and reverse this growing trend. We also promote media literacy, self-esteem, positive body image and female role models for kids."
| NOMINEES |
 Cerrie Burnell, CBEEBIES Presenter
|
 Eleanor Simmonds, Swimmer
|
 Gok Wan
|
RETAIL AWARD
| WINNER | Debenhams
For their ongoing Inclusivity Campaign showcasing imagery that is inspirational and realistic by using models who are older, curvier and, in Shannon Murray's case, visibly disabled to inspire modern day British women.
| THEY SAY |
“We cater for women of all shapes and sizes, young and old, non-disabled and disabled so we wanted our windows to reflect this choice."- Michael Sharp, Debenhams’ Deputy Chief Executive
| NOMINEES |
 ASOS Curve
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 La Redoute 'En Plus'
|
 Vivienne of Holloway
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CELEBRITY AMBASSADOR OF THE YEAR AWARD Decided by public vote
| WINNER | Davina McCall
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Charlotte Gush is a freelance fashion writer, blogger and editor, as well as the Online Commissioning Editor for All Walks. She has previously spent 6 months working for All Walks at the London office as a social media, marketing and production intern. Charlotte writes a fashion, street style and personal style blog, CAVACOMA.com, with a dedicated Facebook fanpage here, and a Twitter account @CavaCharlotte |
All Walks announce the inaugural Body Confidence Awards and nominees
We are delighted to announce, alongside the other members of the All Party Parliamentary Group on Body Image, that the inaugural Body Confidence Awards will take place this Thursday, 19th April 2012, at the House of Commons.
The awards will recognise and celebrate the efforts and achievements of those who promote body confidence within various industries. A judging panel made up of representatives from B-eat, the Centre for Appearance Research, All Walks Beyond the Catwalk, AnyBody, Stephanie Heart Enterprises, Mumsnet, and the Central YMCA along with Jo Swinson MP sifted through countless nominations to come up with the shortlists.
The nominees were chosen for a number of reasons including aspirational diversity in size, age and skin tone; responsible use of body imagery and the consideration of diverse body sizes, shapes and beauty; promotion of active and healthy lifestyles and less sexualised imagery.
Commenting, Jo Swinson MP for East Dunbartonshire said:
“With these awards we want to publicly recognise positive steps taken by industry groups, businesses and campaigners. In highlighting their leading work and body confidence initiatives hopefully they will inspire others to follow in their footsteps.”
Susie Orbach from AnyBody said:
“It influences us all and affects the well-being of young women and men so it is important to acknowledge examples which promote body confidence and counteract the damage. Advertisers and marketers can be so imaginative. These are examples of the direction to aim in.”
All Walks' Co-Founder and Fashion Commentator Caryn Franklin said:
“Fashion design can be a huge force for good when individuality and diversity are celebrated. At All Walks, we love fashion for all ages, sizes and skin tones.”
Commenting on his nomination, fashion designer Giles Deacon said:
“I am thrilled to be nominated for a Body Confidence award. Since launching my eponymous label in 2003 I have worked with a wide range of ages and body types and a particular highlight for me was working with Verushka who modelled in my in Spring Summer 2011 collection closing the runway show age 73. I like to work with this wide range of women as body confidence and character pervade.”
Commenting on his nomination, fashion designer Mark Fast said:
“Over the years I have been privileged to work with some of the most beautiful and shapely women in the world and it is true to say that even the most beautiful (by any standards) have moments of doubt and insecurities. I want to celebrate women and make them feel good in my clothes.”
And the nominees are:
Advertising
‘The Woman’ by Breast Cancer Care; ‘Growing up’ by Dove; ‘100 Days of Summer’ by New Look; ‘Fotoshop by Adobé’ by Jesse Rosten
Beauty
Boots No7 ‘Ta Dah’ range; Illamasqua; Look Good... Feel Better; MAC
Broadcast/Print/Publishing
Beautiful Magazine; Caitlin Moran for How to be a Woman; Gok’s Teens: The Naked Truth; Guardian Weekend Magazine: Fashion for all ages
Campaigner
Body Gossip; Changing Faces; Katie Piper; Miss Representation
Central YMCA Health, Sport and Fitness Award
Curves; Dance UK’s Healthier Dancer Programme; Virgin Active’s Ooomph campaign
Education
Body Gossip’s ‘Gossip School’ education programme; Body Image in the Primary School by Nicky Hutchinson and Chris Calland; Girlguiding UK’s Peer education initiative
All Walks Beyond the Catwalk Fashion Award
Giles Deacon; Mark Fast; Vivienne Westwood
Mumsnet Award for promoting body confidence in children
Cerrie Burnell from CBeebies; Ellie Simmonds; Pink Stinks; Gok Wan
Retail
ASOS Curve; Debenhams; La Redoute; Vivien of Holloway
Celebrity Ambassador of the Year Award
Decided by public votes. To be announced at the ceremony
17.04.2012 Inaugural Body Confidence Awards Nominees Announced
Embargo: 00:00, 17 April 2012
Contact: Corrine Leon 020 7219 8088
In a looks-obsessed society where 47% of girls think the pressure to look attractive is the most negative part of being female[i] and 38% of men would sacrifice at least a year of their life in exchange for a perfect body.[iii]
It is time to recognise the power of media, individuals and corporations to promote better body confidence for all.
The APPG on Body Image is delighted to announce the UK’s first Body Confidence Awards presented in association with bareMinerals.
Mounted by the APPG and with the support of the Campaign for Body Confidence founded in 2009, the ceremony will be held on 19 April 2012 at 7:30 PM at the House of Commons. The Awards will recognise and celebrate the achievements and best practice of those who promote body confidence within various industries.
A judging panel made up of representatives from B-eat, the Centre for Appearance Research, All Walks Beyond the Catwalk, AnyBody, Stephanie Heart Enterprises, Mumsnet, and the Central YMCA along with Jo Swinson MP sifted through countless nominations to come up with the shortlists.
The nominees were chosen for a number of reasons including aspirational diversity in size, age and skin tone; responsible use of body imagery and the consideration of diverse body sizes, shapes and beauty; promotion of active and healthy lifestyles and less sexualised imagery.
Commenting on his nomination fashion designer Giles Deacon said:
“I am thrilled to be nominated for a Body Confidence award. Since launching my eponymous label in 2003 I have worked with a wide range of ages and body types and a particular highlight for me was working with Verushka who modelled in my in Spring Summer 2011 collection closing the runway show age 73. I like to work with this wide range of women as body confidence and character pervade.”
Commenting on his nomination fashion designer Mark Fast said:
“Over the years I have been privileged to work with some of the most beautiful and shapely women in the world and it is true to say that even the most beautiful (by any standards) have moments of doubt and insecurities. I want to celebrate women and make them feel good in my clothes”.
Commenting Susie Orbach from AnyBody said:
“It influences us all and affects the well-being of young women and men so it is important to acknowledge examples which promote body confidence and counteract the damage. Advertisers and marketers can be so imaginative. These are examples of the direction to aim in.”
Commenting Jo Swinson MP for East Dunbartonshire said:
“With these awards we want to publicly recognise positive steps taken by industry groups, businesses and campaigners. In highlighting their leading work and body confidence initiatives hopefully they will inspire others to follow in their footsteps.”
Commenting Caryn Franklin Fashion Commentator and Co-Founder of All Walks Beyond the Catwalk said:
"Fashion design can be a huge force for good when individuality and diversity are celebrated. At All Walks, we love fashion for all ages, sizes and skin tones."
The nominees are:
Advertising
‘The Woman’ by Breast Cancer Care; ‘Growing up’ by Dove; ‘100 Days of Summer’ by New Look; ‘Fotoshop by Adobé’ by Jesse Rosten
Beauty
Boots No7 ‘Ta Dah’ range; Illamasqua; Look Good... Feel Better; MAC
Broadcast/Print/Publishing
Beautiful Magazine; Caitlin Moran for How to be a Woman; Gok’s Teens: The Naked Truth; Guardian Weekend Magazine: Fashion for all ages
Campaigner
Body Gossip; Changing Faces; Katie Piper; Miss Representation
Central YMCA Health, Sport and Fitness Award
Curves; Dance UK’s Healthier Dancer Programme; Virgin Active’s Ooomph campaign
Education
Body Gossip’s ‘Gossip School’ education programme; Body Image in the Primary School by Nicky Hutchinson and Chris Calland; Girlguiding UK’s Peer education initiative
All Walks Beyond the Catwalk Fashion Award
Giles Deacon; Mark Fast; Vivienne Westwood
Mumsnet Award for promoting body confidence in children
Cerrie Burnell from CBeebies; Ellie Simmonds; Pink Stinks; Gok Wan
Retail
ASOS Curve; Debenhams; La Redoute; Vivien of Holloway
Celebrity Ambassador of the Year Award
Decided by public votes. To be announced at the ceremony
- - - ENDS - - -
Notes to editors Interviews with the following campaign members by request or through individual organisations. See links below:- The Campaign for Body Confidence co-founded by Lynne Featherstone MP, now Government Minister for Equalities, and Jo Swinson MP brings together a range of organisations including: B-Eat, All Walks Beyond the Catwalk, Mumsnet, Central YMCA , Anybody, Stephanie Heart Enterprise and the Centre for Appearance Research.
- Award-winning fashion initiative All Walks Beyond the Catwalk promotes a broader range of body and beauty ideals in collaboration with designers, professional models and education professionals. The All Walks nationwide lectures and Centre of Diversity in Edinburgh explore emotionally considerate design for all.
- AnyBody is a non-profit organisation encouraging a change in cultural attitudes towards bodies, food and eating so that women and children of the next generation can learn to be happy in and look after their bodies.
- B-eat is a leading UK charity for people with eating disorders and their families.
- The Centre for Appearance Research is an academic research centre at the University of West England which focuses on appearance-related concerns.
- Central YMCA is a health charity using advocacy and education to change attitudes toward health, including body image.
- Mumsnet is now the UK’s busiest social network for parents, generating over 38 million page views per month and nearly 5 million visits per month.
- Stephanie Heart of SH Enterprises inspires and challenges young women through interactive seminars
- All Party Parliamentary Group on Body Image
- In their most recent campaign “Force of Beauty”, bareMinerals decided to eschew models that represented the elusive notion of beauty, and instead held a blind casting call for women ages 20 to 60. They did not see the women who applied until they were selected for the campaign. Instead, they asked more than 270 women to complete a questionnaire about who they were and what they were like. The company was looking for women who embodied qualities like inspiration, humility and humour. The goal was to capture women who had compelling and interesting stories to tell. With the exception of basic colour correction, the company took pains not to retouch or airbrush photographs of the women, leaving in everything that they came with on their face. They are firm believers that they have a responsibility as a beauty company to start changing the images that women see.
- Photo credit: Kirsten McLennan wears Alice Temperley for All Walks Beyond the Catwalk shot by Rankin Caption: All Walks Beyond the Catwalk promote broader body and beauty ideals in their campaigns.
Students’ Marching Mannequins bring the All Walks’ message to Edinburgh
When fashion students at Edinburgh College of Art were faced with a ‘flatpack’ mannequin and a group of Fashion Journalists from UCA Epsom, as part of the University of Edinburgh’s “Innovative Learning Week”, it’s safe to say we felt slightly dubious about what lay ahead. Despite this, Course Director of Fashion at ECA, Mal Burkinshaw, reassured students that there was method, at least some, to his madness.
Students working to construct the pattern for their mannequins
The project brief was to promote the “All Walks Beyond The Catwalk” campaign using the self-assemble model of a 1950s cardboard mannequin, an object that symbolised the ‘make-do-and-mend’ era, when amateur dressmaking was at its most prominent. Our task was to assemble the mannequin and then use it as a ‘blank canvas’ to create an inspired “All Walks” campaign message of diversity within the fashion industry. Little did we know these would later be pushed into the public eye, literally, on the streets of Edinburgh.
Students working on their Renaissance inspired mannequin, which sought to highlight society’s changing opinion of beauty and the body
Not only did this project offer us a chance to creatively convey the important messages of the “All Walks” campaign - celebrating diversity in ethnicity, age, shape and size, and the need to communicate these to the public - but, by constructing the mannequins, it allowed us to manipulate body sizes - a hands on way for us, as fashion students, to really explore and understand the contours of the body and how much bodies can differ.
Realising that, in emotionally considerate design, we should always refer back to the insight that the human body is unique by nature, we were more fired up than ever to project our belief to the public that we don’t have to be constrained by one prescribed image of ‘beauty.’
The march begins!
Now, it could just have been that the ‘march’ through the streets of Edinburgh offered us a chance to take part in a student demonstration, but I know it meant far more than that to both ECA and UCA Epsom students. We all chose to be a part of the project because we passionately believe that the “All Walks” campaign is so relevant to today’s diverse society and that the public should hear about it and know that people within the industry are really striving to change the images produced by the world of fashion for the better.
Outside the Scottish Parliament
Outside The Scotsman, campaigning to get All Walks into the local press
Shocked at the Harvey Nichols windows, showcasing extremely skinny models, crying and disheveled – is this a positive image of fashion?
Our march took us to Princes Street, the main shopping high street in Edinburgh to educate the consumer directly
After marching around Edinburgh for two and a half hours, from the Scottish Parliament to Primark on Princes Street, handing out flyers and chanting loudly, a sore throat was a small price to pay for what I saw as an extremely worthwhile day of education and of broadcasting our important message.
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Words by Heather Dooley, Fashion Student at Edinburgh College of Art
Images courtesy of Mal Burkinshaw, Dir. 'All Walks Centre for Diversity,' ECA
Editor Charlotte Gush, on Twitter @CavaCharlotte
Interview: Make-Up Maestro Kay Montano talks Beauty and Diversity
Self-described as a ‘Trojan Horse,’ make-up artist Kay Montano is a modern-day feminist with a passion for diversity; displaying an aversion to ‘born Barbie’ culture, she’s definitely not interested in ‘keeping up with the Kardashians’.
Sandwiched between her feminist views and the aesthetically orientated world of make-up, Kay carefully balances the two seemingly contradictory forces:
"Make-Up needn’t be seen as corrective or something to hide behind. I see it as another form of expression and acceptance, even pleasure, of being in your own skin. It’s too easy and too unintelligent to say that wearing make-up means that you’re not empowered. Being a feminist has got nothing to do with what you look like, you could wear make-up, high-heels and have your tits out and still be a feminist.
Sexuality is normal and bodies are nothing to be ashamed of - we learn that it's really all about having awareness of your true intentions. You shouldn't have to hide yourself to be treated as a normal human being. Whether or not to see this freedom an act of sexual submission or sartorial freedom (whether an observer or participant) is all about your own reasons for viewing and participating. As we know, nudity is viewed by different cultures entirely differently, according to what is learned there."
With over twenty years experience within the fashion and beauty industries, Kay has observed representations of the female form morph from a spectrum of ideals to the promotion of an increasingly narrow physical archetype:
"I think that society has regressed back to a really limited stereotype of women, relying on regressive laddish fantasies of 'processed' sexuality, where women look like a cross between little girls and porn stars."
Naming a collection of beauty icons including Anjelica Huston and Lauren Hutton, Kay insists that it’s the imperfections that make us unique and beautiful:
"All my beauty icons have got something a little strange about them, but that’s what makes them exceptional. It’s easier to say what beauty doesn’t mean to me, rather than what it does. It’s not exclusive to any age, race or gender, and it’s not about suffering, oppression or fitting in."
Urging young woman to aspire to alternative role models and reject ‘Kardashian culture’, Kay believes that contemporary feminism comes in the unlikeliest of packages:
"There are so many women who are threatened by the silly notions of what feminism is. The reason I can [now] be so self-assured is that when I grew up I had so many feminist role models. Paula Yates and Gloria Steinem would write gutsy and sassy columns in Cosmopolitan magazine; I was brought up to believe that feminism was seriously hot, so it’s such a shock to see that everyone has gone so 'Kardashian'. More girls should be looking to young women like Tavi Gevinson, who’s speaking to teenagers in a positive way. I love how she writes in Rookie Magazine; she’s young, stylish and talks candidly about being a feminist."
Saluting its co-founders Caryn, Debra and Erin, Kay considers All Walks Beyond the Catwalk to be an integral piece of the jigsaw puzzle in order to reform body image perceptions and appreciate diversity:
"All Walks Beyond the Catwalk has evolved from an earnest movement, to something that’s happening all over the world. The girls have really done their groundwork and have been trailblazers for the cause; I admire them for that. It’s very hard for people in the industry to come forward. People don’t like upturning the apple cart, but All Walks haven’t been afraid to do that."
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Interview by Charmaine Ayden
Editor Charlotte Gush, on Twitter @CavaCharlotte
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Charmaine Ayden is a Fashion Communication graduate from Northumbria University. An avid admirer of all things ‘glossy’, she set her heart on a career in Fashion Journalism from a young age. Undertaking work placements with Vogue, WSGN, Asos, Drapers and Glamour Magazine, Charmaine is currently working as Copy and Features Writer for Brownsfashion.com. Check out Charmaine’s blog The Good is the Beautiful and find her on Twitter @CharmaineAyden |
All Walks Hosts UK Screening of Miss Representation at Parliament
Guests at the All Walks screening of Miss Representation in the House of Commons photographer Annabel Staff“With the lack of female role models reflected in our general media, women often look to fashion for a narrative on femininity. The work of All Walks Beyond the Catwalk to promote a broader range of beauty and body ideals in age, size and skin tone is, therefore, essential”
Colleen Harris speaks at the Miss Representation debate photographer Annabel Staff
Minister for Equalities Lynne Featherstone MP (center) on the debate panel photographer Annabel StaffCatch up on Lynne Featherstone’s Huffington Post blog: Charmaine Ayden is a Fashion Communication graduate from Northumbria University. An avid admirer of all things ‘glossy’, she set her heart on a career in Fashion Journalism from a young age. Undertaking work placements with Vogue, WSGN, Asos, Drapers and Glamour Magazine, Charmaine is currently working as Copy and Features Writer for Brownsfashion.com. Check out Charmaine’s blog The Good is the Beautiful and find her on Twitter @CharmaineAyden
Interview: Hannah Marshall on Powerful Women, Icons, Muses & Friends
Naomi Campbell wearing Hannah Marshall in Vogue Korea, August 2009AW: Your collections convey a sense of female empowerment, how do you achieve this?
HM: I am constantly inspired by strong women such as Grace Jones, Siousxie Sioux, Tilda Swinton and Bjork; women that are unique, powerful, have conviction, integrity, a sense of strength and inner confidence.
Clothing is one of the strongest tools of communication, and I design clothes that empower women through sharp minimalist silhouettes, constructed from sleek but tactile fabrications, in any colour that fits into the monochromatic rainbow.
AW: In past collections youʼve explored the visual collaborations between Grace Jones and Jean Paul Goude, as well as body modification, can you tell us a little more about this?
HM: Pre-digital era, the legendary art director Jean-Paul Goude was a pioneer. My collection entitled “Army of Me” examines methods of attenuating and empowering the female form through designs that evoke the superhuman inuendo of his body of work. The sleek, androgynous persona of his former muse Grace Jones epitomises the very essence of the Hannah Marshall woman.
Florence Welch of Florence and the Machine wears Hannah Marshall AW: Youʼve expressed your love for the shade of black, whatʼs so powerful about this colour?
HM: Black has its own code.
Black can hide well.
Black demands attention.
Black is the most powerful colour that exists.
Black says everything but gives nothing away.
Black is the strongest colour that defines the silhouette.
AW: How do women tend to respond to when wearing your garments?
HM: My designs almost have a transformative quality to them, rendering the female body to create a sharper silhouette that makes the wearer feel confident and on the sensual side of sexy, without being vulnerable.
Beth Ditto of the band The Gossip wears Hannah MarshallAW: Youʼve earned a host of influential fans including Florence Welch, Beth Ditto, Naomi Campbell and Tori Amos; are you excited that such a diverse group of women have all responded to your designs?
HM: The women that wear my designs are incredibly diverse and their only common quality is their difference.
The most exciting moment has to be seeing the iconic cover of Wonderland magazine with the incredible Janet Jackson wearing the Spine Sleeve Dress that was custom made especially for her. I am a huge fan of all music ending with the surname Jackson, so I am very proud of this and thankful to the amazing Anthony Unwin for asking me to create a piece.
Janet Jackson wearing Hannah Marshall for the cover of Wonderland MagazineI have dressed Florence and the Machine for performances, photo shoots and videos but I think the most exciting time for me was creating a custom designed leather, crystal and chiffon bodysuit that she wore in the Drumming video directed by the legendary Dawn Shadforth and styled by Aldene Johnson. I love creating special pieces for artists such as Florence, since not only do they come to life and give the piece a heartbeat, but, my work is digitally immortalised.
Florence Welch of Florence and the Machine wears Hannah Marshall in the video for Drumming The piece I produced for the pilot season of All Walks Beyond the Catwalk has a similar feel to it in the way it moved on the body. I purposely wanted an older woman to wear my design to prove that style is about much more than age, but a certain attitude and confidence in your own skin. The ever-beautiful Valerie Pain was the perfect woman to collaborate with, tall, elegant, beautiful – and 70.
Valerie Pain wearing Hannah Marshall for All Walks Beyond the Catwalk AW: Youʼve previously cited All Walks co-founder, Erin OʼConnor as your muse, how does she inspire you?
HM: Erin modeled exclusively in my very first catwalk show at London Fashion Week and she fitted the role perfectly – she strikes the fine balance between strength and elegance. Erin has actually become a really good friend to me over the past few years, so to me, I no longer only look at her as this incredible British supermodel, because getting to know Erin I can say she is incredibly intelligent, talented, generous, inspiring, trustworthy, loyal and warm person.
Stylist magazine put Erin and I on the front cover of their Fashion Issue, photographed by John-Paul Pietrus which featured an interview about our dual relationship as both designer and muse but also as great friends. I love the way that Erin is unapologetic and the way she reminds me to be unapologetic.
AW: Whatʼs next for Hannah Marshall?
HM: I recently decided not to show seasonal collections on the catwalk, but instead, explore territory around and outside of the fashion sphere. I am currently working on some exciting and innovative projects and crossover collaborations, I can't reveal too much at the moment but - watch this space! The main thing for me is that I want to continue to express my creativity in and outside of the fashion sphere, as it goes beyond the catwalk.
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Interview by Charmaine Ayden
Images courtesy of Hannah Marshall
Editor Charlotte Gush, on Twitter @CavaCharlotte
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Charmaine Ayden is a Fashion Communication graduate from Northumbria University. An avid admirer of all things ‘glossy’, she set her heart on a career in Fashion Journalism from a young age. Undertaking work placements with Vogue, WSGN, Asos, Drapers and Glamour Magazine, Charmaine is currently working as Copy and Features Writer for Brownsfashion.com. Check out Charmaine’s blog The Good is the Beautiful and find her on Twitter @CharmaineAyden |
MISS REPRESENTATION: You Can’t Be What You Can’t See
Embargo: Immediate, 30rd January 2012
Against the backdrop of the Leveson Enquiry where media behaviour has been put under the spotlight, it could be time to look at treatment of women across all media channels. Jennifer Siebel Newsom’s new documentary Miss Representation does just that.
The All Party Parliamentary Group on Body Image, Central YMCA and All Walks Beyond the Catwalk are proud to present the UK premiere of Miss Representation at the House of Commons on 1 February 2012 at 6:00 PM, attended by top media industry professionals.
This award-winning film, exploring how media misrepresentations of women have led to their under-representation in positions of power and influence, will be followed by a panel discussion chaired by Jo Swinson MP and Chair of the All-Party Parliamentary Group on Body Image.
Speaking to this issue in the UK. Panellists include: Lynne Featherstone MP, Minister for Equalities; Colleen Harris, Communications and Diversity Adviser; Susie Orbach, writer and psychotherapist; Malorie Blackman, author.
Commenting on the event Debra Bourne, Co founder, All Walks Beyond the Catwalk said:
"With the lack of female role models reflected in our general media, women often look to fashion for a narrative on femininity. The work of All Walks Beyond the Catwalk to promote a broader range of beauty and body ideals in age, size and skin tone therefore, is essential"
Commenting Jo Swinson said:
"This documentary turns the spotlight on female voices and experiences that often go unheard. The female activists, actors and politicians in the film are highlighting a simple fact: media misrepresentation of women results in a leadership gap. By screening this film we aim to kickstart the debate about the misrepresentation and underrepresentation of women here in the UK"
--- ENDS ---
Notes to Editors
1. Audio and visual clips are available on request.
2. To book interviews with organisers (APPG on Body Image, Central YMCA and All Walks Beyond the Catwalk) please contact: [email protected]; 020 7219 8088
3. For any enquiries related to the Minister or Government policy please contact the Home Office Press Office at 020 7035 3535
Interview: Elisha Smith-Leverock on her Award-winning Film ‘I Want Muscle’
Elisha Smith-Leverock is a filmmaker and photographer working in fashion and music. The All Walks team first met Elisha at a dinner hosted by The W Project. Our very own Caryn and Debra gave a presentation on the All Walks initiative, alongside accessory and prop designer Fred Butler, who presented her work and introduced us to the creatives she collaborates with. Elisha had created several short fashion films showcasing Fred's collections.Elisha's short film 'I Want Muscle' (below) was awarded the Grand Prize at the 2011 A Shaded View of Fashion Film Festival, held at the Center Pompidou in Paris. All Walks' Charmaine Ayden caught up with Elisha to discuss the film and to discover how Caryn and Debra's presentation at The W Project dinner influenced her to deal with the topic of beauty and diversity. - Ed.
'I want Muscle' a film by Elisha Smith-Leverock, Winner of the 2011 ASVOFF MK2 Grand Prix
Elisha, the film is so compelling, how have women responded?
There’s been a really positive reaction. A lot of people, even beyond the fashion audience, have been touched and affected by the content. Countless people have told me that they’ve never seen a female body-builder depicted in this way before, as they’re usually exposed as a kind of ‘freak show' event. For me, that’s not what female body-building is about. It’s beyond looking at someone and thinking ‘wow you look different’, it’s about what it means for the woman’s mental state and understanding why people feel so threatened and react so strongly.
I liked the idea of hooking people in with clichés. You’re expecting to see a film where a woman is passive and objectified, but instead you get physical strength, gruelling hard work and pure gorgeousness [laughs]!
How did you approach female body-builder Kizzy Vaines; was she initially interested, or did she have her doubts?
If she was hesitant, then I don’t think that the film would have worked. In fact, it seemed as if she was completely open to the idea, possibly because there’s an exhibitionist element about filming that appeals to her. We found Kizzy through a casting; it was really important for me to cast someone who was a completely natural body-builder and had achieved their physique through entirely hard work. Kizzy has a very apparent softness, she’s extremely beautiful and she combines both strength and vulnerability, that’s what appealed to me. She was just the perfect candidate [laughs].
How does I Want Muscle address gender stereotypes and body images taboos?
I Want Muscle started with the idea that men are supposed to be strong and muscular, and that women are perceived as being soft and feminine. The subject of body-building toys with that opinion, as the women involved in the sport are physically much stronger than most men. I believe that by showing a physically very strong woman, it challenges the notion that men are the stronger of the two sexes.
I Want Muscle was partly inspired by an All Walks speech at the W Project Dinner; can you tell us a little more about this?
Often when you’re involved in the fashion industry, you’re not always aware of the issues that other people are fighting against. You frequently just accept the established ‘wrongs’ and become a part of a ‘fashion bubble’. So when Caryn and Debra were talking about their intentions for All Walks Beyond the Catwalk, and how they’re attempting to introduce different types of women and bodies into a very close-minded industry, it just stuck with me.
There have been times when I’ve thought ‘well of course I could use a ‘different’ body-type for one of my fashion films’, but I haven’t entirely considered the implications that it has. For instance, many designers won’t consider lending garments to someone that isn’t a sample size, including a body-builder. The subjects that Caryn and Debra spoke about at The W Project dinner mulled around in my head along with some other catalysts, from that point the ideas just exploded into I Want Muscle.
You mention other inspirational catalysts, could you give us an example?
Diane Pernet had approached me for a project that didn’t end up happening. The theme of the film was power, and what we perceive as powerful. Although it didn’t happen, the idea still stuck with me and I wanted to continue with this idea for a film; it just seemed to spark something within me [laughs]. For me personally, the theme of power suggested how female physical strength can be extremely empowering.
I Want Muscle outlines the incredible physical and mental strength that female body-builders possess, how did Kizzy Vaines explain the motivation behind her strength?
I think that she just genuinely loves it, she likes being strong and she loves the sport, so that’s her motivation. She comes from a dance background, she’s a contortionist as well as dancer, and so she’s already possesses a driven and disciplined mindset. Her husband is a body-builder too, so together, I think that they achieve a lot.
While shooting, what common misconceptions about female body-building did you encounter?
Not so much misconceptions, just plain judgement. People can be very closed minded, cautious, ignorant or seemingly offended by her physique, and that truly puzzles me. In fact, while making the film I noticed how many people find physical strength or strong women repulsive. Before the shoot people commented with remarks such as ‘I find it a bit gross’, but after seeing Kizzy move so gracefully in the flesh, many of the girls said that they found her physique sexy and some even wished they could look like her.
The film includes pieces from David Koma, Husam El Odeh and Maria Francesca Pepe, why did you choose to profile these designers?
I Want Muscle was quite different to the other films that I make, as I didn’t work with a specific designer. It was really important that the main focus of the film was the character, not the clothes. Coming from a design background, I wanted to incorporate a fashion aesthetic, but I didn’t want ‘fashion’ to dominate the film. We used a mixture of designers, based on who was open-minded enough to lend us clothes. One of the key pieces was a harness that Kizzy was wearing. I’d discussed it with Kim Howells beforehand, as I felt that the harness juxtaposed the right mixture of resistance and elegance. We did have a particular aesthetic in mind and wanted the film to hark back to the golden era of female body-building, in the late 1970’s early 1980’s.
Diane Pernet and A Shaded View Of Fashion are extremely influential in the world of fashion film, how did it feel to win this years Grand Film Prize?
I felt really, really honoured. There were fifty films in the running and filmmakers that I absolutely worship created a lot of them. A Shaded View of Fashion has been such a great platform and something that I have grown with as a filmmaker. This is the first year that I’ve been in the competition, but Diane has screened a film of mine before.
Do you have any plans for a screening?
Yes, we’re hoping to get a screening in London and invite Kizzy down for a Q&A.; I want lots of people to see the film, because I hope that it will challenge their views. Women don’t come in one generic package, we’re all different shapes and sizes, and so for fellow women to accept Kizzy’s physical strength, well that’s a real achievement.
Where did your interest in fashion film and photography begin?
I studied photography, so my interest has evolved from that point. Initially I started taking a lot of portrait, music and fashion images, but then I became interested in making music videos for friends. Shortly after, the designer Fred Butler approached me and asked if I’d like to make a fashion film. I was like, ‘I’ll give it a shot’; from that moment I kind of stuck with it [laughs].
What’s next for Elisha Smith-Leverock?
I’m going to Surrey to conduct a Fashion Film Workshop with a fellow director. I’ve been sent out there by the British Fashion Council, to talk to people about fashion film. It’s an honour to be featured by All Walks Beyond the Catwalk, as I’m a massive fan of what the girls are doing.
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Interview by Charmaine Ayden
Charmaine is a Fashion Communication graduate from Northumbria University. An avid admirer of all things ‘glossy’, she set her heart on a career in Fashion Journalism from a young age. Undertaking work placements with Vogue, WSGN, Asos, Drapers and Glamour Magazine, Charmaine is currently working as Copy and Features Writer for Brownsfashion.com. Check out Charmaine’s blog The Good is the Beautiful and find her on Twitter @CharmaineAyden
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Editor Charlotte Gush, on Twitter @CavaCharlotte
Beauty, retouched: Is natural beauty just not beautiful enough?
The 'retouching' of imagery is all around us; the process is used to 'perfect' most, if not every, photograph within the media. Natural beauty is often disguised by the detailed manipulation of ‘imperfections’ during the post-production process, producing a glamorous illusion of many icons in our culture. Magazine editors have argued that the reasoning behind retouching stems from the reading audience wanting a perfected look, which they in turn aim to portray in there day-to-day lives. They also say that readers know that the photographs they see are altered and, therefore, they do not need to be labeled as such.
This poses the question, ‘Is re-touching necessary?’ To the extent that it is currently used, I personally do not think it is. Being bombarded with images of ‘perfect’ super-toned bodies and flawless skin can, and does, give a distorted image of beauty which many women feel pressure to live up to. But look at these images of Madonna and Angelina Jolie. They are beautiful already, before the retouching. In my opinion, ‘flaws and blemishes’ should be celebrated, as they create individuality; the essence of true beauty.
The images above show the kind of retouching that most editorial and advertising images undergo. They give us an idea of how much work goes into post-production and how manipulated the final images are. Images which give their viewers an un-realistic image of beauty to aspire to.
For Dove's 2003 "Campaign for Real Beauty" they produced a short film called ‘Evolution’ which provides a refreshing view of the truth behind the image; stripping back the make up, undoing the slimming processes and showing the blemishes of reality. Once uploaded, the advert was viewed over 40,000 times in its first day, 1,700,000 times within a month of its upload and 12,000,000 times within its first year. Here is one of the many Youtube videos of the film:
Tell us what you think about retouching in the media on the All Walks Beyond the Catwalk Facebook page.
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Post by Zina Graber
Zina is a fashion styling student from Cornwall who has a huge interest in celebrating the female form and individuality through styling. I want to be part of changing women’s negative perceptions of themselves so I have recently created a campaign that promotes global style and fashion diversity. The idea is to collect photos of individuals around the world, no matter who you are and showcase you’re style to the world. Check out "What Ya Wearing World?" and find Zina on Twitter @whatyawearingw
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Editor Charlotte Gush, on Twitter @CavaCharlotte
All Walks model Valerie Pain walks for Fashion Fringe winner Fyodor Golan
For their S/S collection – that was showcased as part of their winning Fashion Fringe entry, design duo Fyodor Podogrny and Golan Frydman (together forming FYODOR GOLAN) decided to break fashionable conventions by selecting All Walk’s very own mature model Valerie Pain to showcase their collection.
“This s/s we were looking for the essence of a woman. We wanted to show her journey through our story and how with her struggles she accepts herself for what she is. We wanted to show her sexuality, strength, melancholia and beauty. We admire women of all ages and believed it was crucial for our story and to portray our thoughts to have a mature woman that will encompass the qualities we admire so much.
When we met Valerie she gave us so much drive and energy. She is a very unique woman and she told our whole story with one look. The layers and depth of her life and character swept us into her world and we knew from the start that she was who we were looking for”
Their collection, ‘Flowers of Evil’ was inspired by artists such as Vincent Van Gogh, resulting in a dark and dream like presence being felt from the runway. Embroidered flowers, rigid tailored dresses and detailed laser cutting all featured in a wash of greens and yellows to gothic blacks.
We admire Fyodor Golan for their open minded attitude as new designers and very much look forward to seeing more of their work in the near future.
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Words by Hanna Fillingham
Hanna Fillingham is a second year Journalism student at Cardiff University. During the summer of 2011, Hanna worked as an intern for Caryn Franklin. Hanna has a blog here, and is on Twitter @hannafillingham
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Editor Charlotte Gush, on Twitter @CavaCharlotte
MissRepresentation: Challenge the Media to Portray the Real Value of Women
Newest Miss Representation Trailer from Miss Representation.
MissRepresentation is a campaign that seeks to expose how society in general, and young women in particular, are being sold by the media the concept that the value of women and girls lies in their youth, beauty and sexuality. The trailor for the campaign's eponymous film, a 2011 Sundance Film Festival Official Selection, shows shocking examples of misogyny across film, television and advertising, but it also offers a solution backed my some of the most powerful women in the media, and even in the world. MissRepresentation believe that exposure to powerful, inspirational, and creative female role-models through the media can only lead to an increase in the numbers of women and girls aspiring to these important roles in society; roles for which greater female representation is desperately needed.
The full film premiered at the 2011 Sundance Film Festival and was shown in the US on Oprah Winfrey's TV network. You can find out if there is a screenings of the film near you on the MissRepresentation website calendar. All Walks Beyond the Catwalk are in the process of finding out whether we can host a screening, so keep your fingers crossed with us and hopefully something can be organised - of course we will keep you posted.
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Post by Charlotte Gush
Charlotte is a freelance fashion writer, blogger and editor based in Manchester, as well as the Online Commissioning Editor for All Walks. She has previously spent 6 months working for All Walks at the London office as a social media, marketing and production intern. Charlotte writes a fashion, street style and personal style blog, 'CAVACOMA.com', with a dedicated Facebook fanpage here, and a Twitter account @CavaCharlotte
Our London Fashion Week Highlights
This season, for the first time since our launch in September 2009, we decided not to produce a high-profile industry campaign during fashion week. The reason for this is that we have been focusing all of our attention on the educational side of our work, helping to shape the mindset of future industry players - designers, writers, image makers - towards emotionally considerate practice. To this end, All Walk's founders Caryn and Debra will continue to tour the country, speaking to students at university level about the All Walks way.However, the spirit of All Walks has continued to have a presence on the catwalks during fashion month, and I would like to share these highlights with you. At All Walks, we love to see the people we work with doing really well, and this London Fashion Week has certainly made us proud.
You may have read in a prevous post, written by our Editor Charlotte Gush, about one of the original All Walks pairings, of designer Alexandra Groover and model Lucy Freeman, reuniting this season to make a film together for London Fashion Week.
I was also pleasantly surprised when I received an email containing the images below, of William Tempest's All Walks model Laura Catterall walking in the Elena Miro show in Milan, where she is channelling the perfect Mad Men silhouette with her femme fatal curves:
Coming back to the UK from Milan, spreading the spirit of our campaign at London Fashion Week was All Walks model Valerie Pain, who walked for Fyodor Golan, this year's winner of Fashion Fringe. Pain, the amazingly stunning 70-year-old model, told me that when she attended the casting, she walked in and, on sight of the samples, announced to the casting agent, "I'm not going to waste your time, they won't fit me."
However, the designers were so impressed by her that they redesigned an outfit and fitted it to Valerie's own body shape so that they could have her walk in their show. And just look how confidently she walks and how beautiful she looks in her show-stopping outfit in the short film, below:
To watch more, visit the Fashion Fringe section of the LFW website.
Until next time, I would like to leave you with this thought:
Whatever shape you are, whatever age you are, the women in this post show that being unique is the most beautiful trend to have emerged from fashion week, and I hope you can use this inspiration to embrace your individuality with pride.
Images courtesy of 12+ UK Model Management
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Post by Michael Williamson
Michael is a designer, stylist, blogger and an integral member of the All Walks team, having been with us from the very beginning. Check out his blog, Safety-Pin Charm, to keep your finger on the pulse of all things fashion - especially london based. Follow Michael on You Tube and on Twitter @mwfrost
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Editor Charlotte Gush, on Twitter @CavaCharlotte
En Pointe: Pierson and Lawler Redefine the Runway
Ten principal dancers from the Royal Ballet glide down the catwalk en pointe; like models in heels, but oh so vibrant and joyful. Their movements are choreographed to a soundtrack which is mixed live during the show; it had previously been co-composed by the designer herself along with the Brit-award winning and Oscar-nominated composer Nick Wollage. For me, this added a glorious new dimension to the idea of what a ‘runway show' can be.
Of course, there was design artistry and the collaboration of Jayne Pierson and Derek Lawler tackled pre-conceptions of textiles, like leather - often associated with fetish, and wool - old-fashioned connotations, but there was also a skillfully applied human connection so often missing from shows where young women, some incarcerated in rigid and restrictive sample garments parade gingerly and fearfully (ill conceived footwear permitting) down the runway.
Wearing their ballet shoes and sporting crimped beehive hairstyles, the dancers in possession of natural eleganceand muscular, graceful bodies, compelled every iPhone owner in the building to record the spectacle.
No, it didn’t obstruct the viewing of the clothes. Yes, I did feel uplifted and excited. Let others write about the collection.
I know I will be including this catwalk show in all the student presentations I do for All Walks this coming season, to show that diversity and individuality can be played out in many interesting ways.
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Post by Caryn Franklin, Co-founder of All Walks Beyond the Catwalk. On Twitter @Caryn_Franklin
Photography by Ross Pierson
Editor Charlotte Gush, on Twitter @CavaCharlotte
Diane Pernet’s “Shaded View” of the Model Sanctuary
Today we met with Diane Pernet who is Co-Editor in Chief of Zoo magazine and owner of one of the most famous fashion blogs, A Shaded View on Fashion. Diane took a trip down to Erin's Model Sanctuary to find out more about the emotionally considerate side of fashion.
Diane and I spoke about new technology and the speed that everything is updating; a speed that does not always allow for your body to cope with the pace needed to keep up.
With stress as the topic, at one of fashion creatives' most stressful times of year, we both agreed that places like the Model Sanctury are crucial to nurturing the young minds that walk through those doors.
After a tour around the Sanctury, including a look at the Rankin portraits which are displayed in the hall as a mini-installation, Diane posed for me on our famous calico that is full of positive messages with the All Walks campaign in mind.
If only I had remembered to get her to sign the calico too! But Diane, our Blogger in black, was warm hearted, loving and very accommodating as she did an interview for another blog post for the Model Sanctuary.
As you can see below, Diane has supported All Walks since the start, championing our very first All Walks brochure the 25th anniversary London fashion week celebrations.
Black may be a classic, but nothing is more chic than diversity and love, as agreed by Diane and I.
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Words and all images by Michael Williamson
Michael is a designer, stylist, blogger and an integral member of the All Walks team, having been with us from the very beginning. Check out his blog, Safety-Pin Charm, to keep your finger on the pulse of all things fashion - especially london based. Follow Michael on You Tube and on Twitter @mwfrost
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Editor Charlotte Gush, on Twitter @CavaCharlotte
Erin’s Model Sanctuary launches on eve of London Fashion Week
So, it's the night before London Fashion Week and the parties have already started!TODAY, All Walks co-founder Erin O'Connor launched The Model Sanctuary 2011 to the press. And All Walks went to pay a visit and to support this brilliant sister organisation which nurtures models and students during London Fashion Week.
Whilst we were there, we were fortunate enough to bump into All Walks model Naomi Shimada relaxing in the Sanctuary where she couldn't resist a quick snap and a catch up with us.
We are also happy to tell you that Erin is championing the All Walks cause, introducing it to all the models that attend the Sanctuary, by featuring the All Walks SNAPPED campaign images, shot by Rankin, which we exhibited earlier this year at the National Portrait Gallery. They are displayed on the walls of the Santuary's stairways as well as in an area called The Creative Factory, which allows models to express themselves artistically through art.
IMAGE: The All Walks team using the calico
This calico sheet has travelled the country with Co-Founder Caryn Franklin on her journeys to design colleges to give seminars about All Walks and it was also displayed at the National Portrait Gallery last season (AW10) for LFW, when it also spent some time in The Model Sanctuary.
Click here for related blog
So, as promised we will keep you updated on the journey of this calico - it is growing every time we have an event, with more messages written onto it and it doesn't look like stopping any time soon!
Fear not! The blog will not end here. Myself and fellow Blogger Charlotte will be blogging and tweeting all over Fashion Week.
So dig out those heels and work your look, but remember confidence is the best look for every season!
Sites and Tweets to Read this week:
All Walks, of course ;)
Erin's Model Sanctuary Website
Twitter:
Follow the founders on:
@MsDebraBourne
@Caryn_Franklin
@Erin_O_Connor
All Walks Team on LFW:
@MWfrost
@CavaCharlotte
@iamFenia
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Words and all images by Michael Williamson
Michael is a designer, stylist, blogger and an integral member of the All Walks team, having been with us from the very beginning. Check out his blog, Safety-Pin Charm, to keep your finger on the pulse of all things fashion - especially london based. Follow Michael on You Tube and on Twitter @mwfrost
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Editor Charlotte Gush, on Twitter @CavaCharlotte
Spanish Parliament fight against eating disorders
Spanish political group the Convergence and Union (CIU) has presented a proposal to the Government, urging them to take action against eating disorders such as anorexia and bulimia in Spain.The initiative proposes reinforcement of the computer offenses investigation team, to deal with unlawful website content relating to eating disorders. The proposal also requests that websites display the owner's contact details, in order to identify those responsible and eliminate any harmful content.
Another important point of the proposal is to regulate catwalk models. They ask the industry not to hire extremely thin models and to redefine fashion sizes.
This proposal has been developed to deal with the increasing number of eating disorders in Spain and to consider the social circumstances that surround them.
CIU maintains that we have created a "social stereotype of extreme thinness linked with beauty and success." In their opinion, this stereotype is "supported by magazines, advertisements and models, sending a deceitful message about diets and inviting women to loose weight and focus [negatively] on the body."
I believe this is an important step in making the Spanish government aware of the need to deal with this growing problem. The debate should start now, and professionals from different fields should work together in order to find the best solutions, and in some cases regulations, for the issues discussed here.
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Post by Maria Llanos
Our voice from Spain! After graduating in Business Administration, María worked in marketing at L’oréal for almost 3 years. After this period, she decided to develop her creativity by studying an MA in Design Studies at Central Saint Martins, where she developed her thesis around the evolution of the ideal female beauty concept and got to know All Walks. Currently, María is working at a Communication agency in Madrid. Check out all of Maria Llanos' posts for All Walks, and find her on Twitter @merillanos.
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Editor Charlotte Gush, on Twitter @CavaCharlotte
H&M’s SUMMER MEN!
I found H&M;’s last advertising campaign very refreshing; not only for the light and beach portrayed but for the male models they chose to wear the swimmear designs.The models are Andrés Velencoso, one of the most famous Spanish models, and Ben Hill, an American model ranked amongst the top ten world models. Both are 33 years old and have worked for H&M; before.
In the campaign images, Andrés and Ben appear with hair chest and, in Ben’s case, with some grey hair. What I like about this is that they look more natural and healthy than many of the models we are used to seeing lately. We shouldn’t forget that the images are clearly fashion-oriented; the location is perfect and the models are extremely handsome, but they look confident, masculine and quite relaxed.
In my opinion, the issue of thinness and youth is impacting the male model industry more and more, with well-known models losing weight – like Jon Kortajarena - and fashion houses and magazines choosing young and androgynous models, such as this model on the cover of Japanese Voge Homme:
We can already see that many male models face the same pressure over their weight as female models do. This is worrying as men have, until now, appeared to be less susceptible to pressure to be ultra-skinny, but the more pressure on models to be this thin, the more pressure 'normal' men may feel to look unhealthily thin .
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Post by Maria Llanos
Our voice from Spain! After graduating in Business Administration, María worked in marketing at L’oréal for almost 3 years. After this period, she decided to develop her creativity by studying an MA in Design Studies at Central Saint Martins, where she developed her thesis around the evolution of the ideal female beauty concept and got to know All Walks. Currently, María is working at a Communication agency in Madrid. Check out all her posts here, and on Twitter @merillanos.
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Editor Charlotte Gush, on Twitter @CavaCharlotte
The Sartorialist Courts Controversy with Curvy Comments
Of course you would look at her, sashaying through the streets of Milan in her electric blue heels. She’s elegant, that’s for sure. Stylish? Definitely. But curvy? That seems to have hit a nerve. When esteemed photo-blogger Scott Schuman 'The Sartorialist' recently described one of his street style subjects ‘sturdy’ and ‘curvy’, the omnipresent size debate found paper and a match. Readers voiced their outrage, condemning his choice of words, and suggesting he should have described her as ‘normal’ instead.
But the way I see it, one relatively small event has unpacked bigger, more profound debates. Like what exactly is ‘normal’? And what’s so wrong with being curvy, anyway? I always think that matters of appearance are entirely subjective. And, with the variety of shapes and sizes of beautiful women being myriad – I never buy into that fact that we can all neatly slot into one of four fruit-themed categories – can we ever really say somebody has a ‘normal’ figure? I mean, Sophie Dahl is 5”11. Hayden Panettiere is 5”1. Both women are beautiful. But which is ‘normal’? Variety should be celebrated, not inconsiderately characterised and assigned ill-fitting labels. In his rebuttal, the Schuman himself said much the same thing, adding: “I am proud to be a blog[ger] showing women of different sizes. I don't want to lose the potential power of the post by being caught up in wordplay.”
Are people getting angry about the wrong thing here? Yes, to thousands of readers, and I must say, myself, this woman looks lean and healthy, and perhaps ‘curvy’ was not the perfect way to describe her. But does it matter that he did? Why should the word 'curvy' carry any negative connotations at all? Long, lean, petite, curvy; women should be proud of their shape, whatever it may be.
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Post by Erin Cardiff
Erin is a second year journalism student at the University of Sheffield. She is currently applying for masters courses in New York to study magazine journalism. Erin has two blogs, Frocking Hell and Erin Actually . You can find her on Twitter @erincardiff.
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Editor Charlotte Gush, on Twitter @CavaCharlotte
Jul 11, 2011 | Categories: Blog | Tags: +size, All walks, all walks beyond the catwalk, Angelika, curvy, curvy blogger, curvy comment, Scott Schuman, sturdy, The Sartorialist | Comments Off