All Walks “Plus Size” model Laura Catterall covers French Cosmo
Former All Walks model Laura Catterall has covered French Cosmopolitan's April issue. Her curves are beautifully displayed by the 50's style shoot. All Walks is proud to have introduced Laura to London designer Mark Fast in 2010; he subsequently booked her to walk in his catwalk show alongside other "plus size" models, including Hayley Morley.
The shoot in French Cosmo shows Laura's stunning feminine curves, and emphasizes her healthy, beautifully toned athletic limbs:
The French seem to be leading the way in terms of featuring curvy, "plus size" (not a very helpful term) models prominently; with French Elle having used Tara Lynn on their February cover, describing her as "The Body," a title formerly used to describe super model Elle Macpherson.
Here at All Walks we are aware that magazines have often featured curvy models in a way that makes them seem like a novelty, rather than as beautiful women whose figures more closely resemble those of the general population. However, putting such beautifully curvaceous models on the cover of the magazine shows an acceptance that they are aspirational figures who can sell fashion (magazines) as well as any 'standard' size model.
We say, "Continuez le bon travail!"
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Words by Charlotte Gush
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Charlotte Gush is a freelance fashion writer, blogger and editor, as well as the Online Commissioning Editor for All Walks. She has previously spent 6 months working for All Walks at the London office as a social media, marketing and production intern. Charlotte writes a fashion, street style and personal style blog, CAVACOMA.com, with a dedicated Facebook fanpage here, and a Twitter account @CavaCharlotte |
Interview: Make-Up Maestro Kay Montano talks Beauty and Diversity
Self-described as a ‘Trojan Horse,’ make-up artist Kay Montano is a modern-day feminist with a passion for diversity; displaying an aversion to ‘born Barbie’ culture, she’s definitely not interested in ‘keeping up with the Kardashians’.
Sandwiched between her feminist views and the aesthetically orientated world of make-up, Kay carefully balances the two seemingly contradictory forces:
"Make-Up needn’t be seen as corrective or something to hide behind. I see it as another form of expression and acceptance, even pleasure, of being in your own skin. It’s too easy and too unintelligent to say that wearing make-up means that you’re not empowered. Being a feminist has got nothing to do with what you look like, you could wear make-up, high-heels and have your tits out and still be a feminist.
Sexuality is normal and bodies are nothing to be ashamed of - we learn that it's really all about having awareness of your true intentions. You shouldn't have to hide yourself to be treated as a normal human being. Whether or not to see this freedom an act of sexual submission or sartorial freedom (whether an observer or participant) is all about your own reasons for viewing and participating. As we know, nudity is viewed by different cultures entirely differently, according to what is learned there."
With over twenty years experience within the fashion and beauty industries, Kay has observed representations of the female form morph from a spectrum of ideals to the promotion of an increasingly narrow physical archetype:
"I think that society has regressed back to a really limited stereotype of women, relying on regressive laddish fantasies of 'processed' sexuality, where women look like a cross between little girls and porn stars."
Naming a collection of beauty icons including Anjelica Huston and Lauren Hutton, Kay insists that it’s the imperfections that make us unique and beautiful:
"All my beauty icons have got something a little strange about them, but that’s what makes them exceptional. It’s easier to say what beauty doesn’t mean to me, rather than what it does. It’s not exclusive to any age, race or gender, and it’s not about suffering, oppression or fitting in."
Urging young woman to aspire to alternative role models and reject ‘Kardashian culture’, Kay believes that contemporary feminism comes in the unlikeliest of packages:
"There are so many women who are threatened by the silly notions of what feminism is. The reason I can [now] be so self-assured is that when I grew up I had so many feminist role models. Paula Yates and Gloria Steinem would write gutsy and sassy columns in Cosmopolitan magazine; I was brought up to believe that feminism was seriously hot, so it’s such a shock to see that everyone has gone so 'Kardashian'. More girls should be looking to young women like Tavi Gevinson, who’s speaking to teenagers in a positive way. I love how she writes in Rookie Magazine; she’s young, stylish and talks candidly about being a feminist."
Saluting its co-founders Caryn, Debra and Erin, Kay considers All Walks Beyond the Catwalk to be an integral piece of the jigsaw puzzle in order to reform body image perceptions and appreciate diversity:
"All Walks Beyond the Catwalk has evolved from an earnest movement, to something that’s happening all over the world. The girls have really done their groundwork and have been trailblazers for the cause; I admire them for that. It’s very hard for people in the industry to come forward. People don’t like upturning the apple cart, but All Walks haven’t been afraid to do that."
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Interview by Charmaine Ayden
Editor Charlotte Gush, on Twitter @CavaCharlotte
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Charmaine Ayden is a Fashion Communication graduate from Northumbria University. An avid admirer of all things ‘glossy’, she set her heart on a career in Fashion Journalism from a young age. Undertaking work placements with Vogue, WSGN, Asos, Drapers and Glamour Magazine, Charmaine is currently working as Copy and Features Writer for Brownsfashion.com. Check out Charmaine’s blog The Good is the Beautiful and find her on Twitter @CharmaineAyden |
All Walks Hosts UK Screening of Miss Representation at Parliament
Guests at the All Walks screening of Miss Representation in the House of Commons photographer Annabel Staff“With the lack of female role models reflected in our general media, women often look to fashion for a narrative on femininity. The work of All Walks Beyond the Catwalk to promote a broader range of beauty and body ideals in age, size and skin tone is, therefore, essential”
Colleen Harris speaks at the Miss Representation debate photographer Annabel Staff
Minister for Equalities Lynne Featherstone MP (center) on the debate panel photographer Annabel StaffCatch up on Lynne Featherstone’s Huffington Post blog: Charmaine Ayden is a Fashion Communication graduate from Northumbria University. An avid admirer of all things ‘glossy’, she set her heart on a career in Fashion Journalism from a young age. Undertaking work placements with Vogue, WSGN, Asos, Drapers and Glamour Magazine, Charmaine is currently working as Copy and Features Writer for Brownsfashion.com. Check out Charmaine’s blog The Good is the Beautiful and find her on Twitter @CharmaineAyden
Beauty, retouched: Is natural beauty just not beautiful enough?
The 'retouching' of imagery is all around us; the process is used to 'perfect' most, if not every, photograph within the media. Natural beauty is often disguised by the detailed manipulation of ‘imperfections’ during the post-production process, producing a glamorous illusion of many icons in our culture. Magazine editors have argued that the reasoning behind retouching stems from the reading audience wanting a perfected look, which they in turn aim to portray in there day-to-day lives. They also say that readers know that the photographs they see are altered and, therefore, they do not need to be labeled as such.
This poses the question, ‘Is re-touching necessary?’ To the extent that it is currently used, I personally do not think it is. Being bombarded with images of ‘perfect’ super-toned bodies and flawless skin can, and does, give a distorted image of beauty which many women feel pressure to live up to. But look at these images of Madonna and Angelina Jolie. They are beautiful already, before the retouching. In my opinion, ‘flaws and blemishes’ should be celebrated, as they create individuality; the essence of true beauty.
The images above show the kind of retouching that most editorial and advertising images undergo. They give us an idea of how much work goes into post-production and how manipulated the final images are. Images which give their viewers an un-realistic image of beauty to aspire to.
For Dove's 2003 "Campaign for Real Beauty" they produced a short film called ‘Evolution’ which provides a refreshing view of the truth behind the image; stripping back the make up, undoing the slimming processes and showing the blemishes of reality. Once uploaded, the advert was viewed over 40,000 times in its first day, 1,700,000 times within a month of its upload and 12,000,000 times within its first year. Here is one of the many Youtube videos of the film:
Tell us what you think about retouching in the media on the All Walks Beyond the Catwalk Facebook page.
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Post by Zina Graber
Zina is a fashion styling student from Cornwall who has a huge interest in celebrating the female form and individuality through styling. I want to be part of changing women’s negative perceptions of themselves so I have recently created a campaign that promotes global style and fashion diversity. The idea is to collect photos of individuals around the world, no matter who you are and showcase you’re style to the world. Check out "What Ya Wearing World?" and find Zina on Twitter @whatyawearingw
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Editor Charlotte Gush, on Twitter @CavaCharlotte
All Walks model Valerie Pain walks for Fashion Fringe winner Fyodor Golan
For their S/S collection – that was showcased as part of their winning Fashion Fringe entry, design duo Fyodor Podogrny and Golan Frydman (together forming FYODOR GOLAN) decided to break fashionable conventions by selecting All Walk’s very own mature model Valerie Pain to showcase their collection.
“This s/s we were looking for the essence of a woman. We wanted to show her journey through our story and how with her struggles she accepts herself for what she is. We wanted to show her sexuality, strength, melancholia and beauty. We admire women of all ages and believed it was crucial for our story and to portray our thoughts to have a mature woman that will encompass the qualities we admire so much.
When we met Valerie she gave us so much drive and energy. She is a very unique woman and she told our whole story with one look. The layers and depth of her life and character swept us into her world and we knew from the start that she was who we were looking for”
Their collection, ‘Flowers of Evil’ was inspired by artists such as Vincent Van Gogh, resulting in a dark and dream like presence being felt from the runway. Embroidered flowers, rigid tailored dresses and detailed laser cutting all featured in a wash of greens and yellows to gothic blacks.
We admire Fyodor Golan for their open minded attitude as new designers and very much look forward to seeing more of their work in the near future.
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Words by Hanna Fillingham
Hanna Fillingham is a second year Journalism student at Cardiff University. During the summer of 2011, Hanna worked as an intern for Caryn Franklin. Hanna has a blog here, and is on Twitter @hannafillingham
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Editor Charlotte Gush, on Twitter @CavaCharlotte
MissRepresentation: Challenge the Media to Portray the Real Value of Women
Newest Miss Representation Trailer from Miss Representation.
MissRepresentation is a campaign that seeks to expose how society in general, and young women in particular, are being sold by the media the concept that the value of women and girls lies in their youth, beauty and sexuality. The trailor for the campaign's eponymous film, a 2011 Sundance Film Festival Official Selection, shows shocking examples of misogyny across film, television and advertising, but it also offers a solution backed my some of the most powerful women in the media, and even in the world. MissRepresentation believe that exposure to powerful, inspirational, and creative female role-models through the media can only lead to an increase in the numbers of women and girls aspiring to these important roles in society; roles for which greater female representation is desperately needed.
The full film premiered at the 2011 Sundance Film Festival and was shown in the US on Oprah Winfrey's TV network. You can find out if there is a screenings of the film near you on the MissRepresentation website calendar. All Walks Beyond the Catwalk are in the process of finding out whether we can host a screening, so keep your fingers crossed with us and hopefully something can be organised - of course we will keep you posted.
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Post by Charlotte Gush
Charlotte is a freelance fashion writer, blogger and editor based in Manchester, as well as the Online Commissioning Editor for All Walks. She has previously spent 6 months working for All Walks at the London office as a social media, marketing and production intern. Charlotte writes a fashion, street style and personal style blog, 'CAVACOMA.com', with a dedicated Facebook fanpage here, and a Twitter account @CavaCharlotte
Our London Fashion Week Highlights
This season, for the first time since our launch in September 2009, we decided not to produce a high-profile industry campaign during fashion week. The reason for this is that we have been focusing all of our attention on the educational side of our work, helping to shape the mindset of future industry players - designers, writers, image makers - towards emotionally considerate practice. To this end, All Walk's founders Caryn and Debra will continue to tour the country, speaking to students at university level about the All Walks way.However, the spirit of All Walks has continued to have a presence on the catwalks during fashion month, and I would like to share these highlights with you. At All Walks, we love to see the people we work with doing really well, and this London Fashion Week has certainly made us proud.
You may have read in a prevous post, written by our Editor Charlotte Gush, about one of the original All Walks pairings, of designer Alexandra Groover and model Lucy Freeman, reuniting this season to make a film together for London Fashion Week.
I was also pleasantly surprised when I received an email containing the images below, of William Tempest's All Walks model Laura Catterall walking in the Elena Miro show in Milan, where she is channelling the perfect Mad Men silhouette with her femme fatal curves:
Coming back to the UK from Milan, spreading the spirit of our campaign at London Fashion Week was All Walks model Valerie Pain, who walked for Fyodor Golan, this year's winner of Fashion Fringe. Pain, the amazingly stunning 70-year-old model, told me that when she attended the casting, she walked in and, on sight of the samples, announced to the casting agent, "I'm not going to waste your time, they won't fit me."
However, the designers were so impressed by her that they redesigned an outfit and fitted it to Valerie's own body shape so that they could have her walk in their show. And just look how confidently she walks and how beautiful she looks in her show-stopping outfit in the short film, below:
To watch more, visit the Fashion Fringe section of the LFW website.
Until next time, I would like to leave you with this thought:
Whatever shape you are, whatever age you are, the women in this post show that being unique is the most beautiful trend to have emerged from fashion week, and I hope you can use this inspiration to embrace your individuality with pride.
Images courtesy of 12+ UK Model Management
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Post by Michael Williamson
Michael is a designer, stylist, blogger and an integral member of the All Walks team, having been with us from the very beginning. Check out his blog, Safety-Pin Charm, to keep your finger on the pulse of all things fashion - especially london based. Follow Michael on You Tube and on Twitter @mwfrost
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Editor Charlotte Gush, on Twitter @CavaCharlotte
Erin’s Model Sanctuary launches on eve of London Fashion Week
So, it's the night before London Fashion Week and the parties have already started!TODAY, All Walks co-founder Erin O'Connor launched The Model Sanctuary 2011 to the press. And All Walks went to pay a visit and to support this brilliant sister organisation which nurtures models and students during London Fashion Week.
Whilst we were there, we were fortunate enough to bump into All Walks model Naomi Shimada relaxing in the Sanctuary where she couldn't resist a quick snap and a catch up with us.
We are also happy to tell you that Erin is championing the All Walks cause, introducing it to all the models that attend the Sanctuary, by featuring the All Walks SNAPPED campaign images, shot by Rankin, which we exhibited earlier this year at the National Portrait Gallery. They are displayed on the walls of the Santuary's stairways as well as in an area called The Creative Factory, which allows models to express themselves artistically through art.
IMAGE: The All Walks team using the calico
This calico sheet has travelled the country with Co-Founder Caryn Franklin on her journeys to design colleges to give seminars about All Walks and it was also displayed at the National Portrait Gallery last season (AW10) for LFW, when it also spent some time in The Model Sanctuary.
Click here for related blog
So, as promised we will keep you updated on the journey of this calico - it is growing every time we have an event, with more messages written onto it and it doesn't look like stopping any time soon!
Fear not! The blog will not end here. Myself and fellow Blogger Charlotte will be blogging and tweeting all over Fashion Week.
So dig out those heels and work your look, but remember confidence is the best look for every season!
Sites and Tweets to Read this week:
All Walks, of course ;)
Erin's Model Sanctuary Website
Twitter:
Follow the founders on:
@MsDebraBourne
@Caryn_Franklin
@Erin_O_Connor
All Walks Team on LFW:
@MWfrost
@CavaCharlotte
@iamFenia
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Words and all images by Michael Williamson
Michael is a designer, stylist, blogger and an integral member of the All Walks team, having been with us from the very beginning. Check out his blog, Safety-Pin Charm, to keep your finger on the pulse of all things fashion - especially london based. Follow Michael on You Tube and on Twitter @mwfrost
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Editor Charlotte Gush, on Twitter @CavaCharlotte
Spanish Parliament fight against eating disorders
Spanish political group the Convergence and Union (CIU) has presented a proposal to the Government, urging them to take action against eating disorders such as anorexia and bulimia in Spain.The initiative proposes reinforcement of the computer offenses investigation team, to deal with unlawful website content relating to eating disorders. The proposal also requests that websites display the owner's contact details, in order to identify those responsible and eliminate any harmful content.
Another important point of the proposal is to regulate catwalk models. They ask the industry not to hire extremely thin models and to redefine fashion sizes.
This proposal has been developed to deal with the increasing number of eating disorders in Spain and to consider the social circumstances that surround them.
CIU maintains that we have created a "social stereotype of extreme thinness linked with beauty and success." In their opinion, this stereotype is "supported by magazines, advertisements and models, sending a deceitful message about diets and inviting women to loose weight and focus [negatively] on the body."
I believe this is an important step in making the Spanish government aware of the need to deal with this growing problem. The debate should start now, and professionals from different fields should work together in order to find the best solutions, and in some cases regulations, for the issues discussed here.
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Post by Maria Llanos
Our voice from Spain! After graduating in Business Administration, María worked in marketing at L’oréal for almost 3 years. After this period, she decided to develop her creativity by studying an MA in Design Studies at Central Saint Martins, where she developed her thesis around the evolution of the ideal female beauty concept and got to know All Walks. Currently, María is working at a Communication agency in Madrid. Check out all of Maria Llanos' posts for All Walks, and find her on Twitter @merillanos.
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Editor Charlotte Gush, on Twitter @CavaCharlotte
H&M’s SUMMER MEN!
I found H&M;’s last advertising campaign very refreshing; not only for the light and beach portrayed but for the male models they chose to wear the swimmear designs.The models are Andrés Velencoso, one of the most famous Spanish models, and Ben Hill, an American model ranked amongst the top ten world models. Both are 33 years old and have worked for H&M; before.
In the campaign images, Andrés and Ben appear with hair chest and, in Ben’s case, with some grey hair. What I like about this is that they look more natural and healthy than many of the models we are used to seeing lately. We shouldn’t forget that the images are clearly fashion-oriented; the location is perfect and the models are extremely handsome, but they look confident, masculine and quite relaxed.
In my opinion, the issue of thinness and youth is impacting the male model industry more and more, with well-known models losing weight – like Jon Kortajarena - and fashion houses and magazines choosing young and androgynous models, such as this model on the cover of Japanese Voge Homme:
We can already see that many male models face the same pressure over their weight as female models do. This is worrying as men have, until now, appeared to be less susceptible to pressure to be ultra-skinny, but the more pressure on models to be this thin, the more pressure 'normal' men may feel to look unhealthily thin .
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Post by Maria Llanos
Our voice from Spain! After graduating in Business Administration, María worked in marketing at L’oréal for almost 3 years. After this period, she decided to develop her creativity by studying an MA in Design Studies at Central Saint Martins, where she developed her thesis around the evolution of the ideal female beauty concept and got to know All Walks. Currently, María is working at a Communication agency in Madrid. Check out all her posts here, and on Twitter @merillanos.
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Editor Charlotte Gush, on Twitter @CavaCharlotte
Model body: proportion london’s diverse mannequins
For many, the shop mannequin is the first point of real contact that they have with a design, which they may previously have seen on the runway or in the media, and this experience informs how they may wear the garment.
Window displays have been a integral part of the shopping experience ever since the late 1950's; from enticing the customer into the store, to helping some garments take shape and show the consumer what the garment is to look like on the human form, encouraging the customer to try it on.
Proportion London, who specialize in mannequins and bust forms, have supported All Walks Beyond the Catwalk in our most recent project 'SNAPPED,' which was held at the National Portrait Gallery, by kindly loaning a collection of vintage inspired mannequins. Click here to see the mannequins in 'action.'
All Walks recently took a trip to Proportion London in order to see some of their latest mannequins and bust forms. What has got us excited is the range of different skin tones of the mannequins and the company's positive approach to ethnic diversity. Tanya Reynolds, creative director of Proportion London, says she believes that there is:
"[a restricted] range of skin colours on the catwalks, and when customers come into us they want to emulate the human being using wigs and make up, but they also look for skin tones that then tie in with their shows. So far, too often we don't see a diversity of skin tones, especially in the darker colours or the more oriental skin tones"
Because of this, Tanya decided to make a change and hired a colour specialist who was researching how different tones appear under different lights. After testing hundreds of different colours they developed about 30 paint shades from very pale to very dark skin tones in order to make their mannequins available in a selection of more realistic and diverse skin tones. Even better, if a customer requests a tone that they do not yet cater for, Proportion London will create one especially, so there are no limits on the skin tones available.
During our collaboration with Proportion London for 'SNAPPED', our event at the National Portrait Gallery, Tanya kindly allowed me to interview her for a recording which was played in the gallery's Brown Room for the one night only spectacular. I was particularly impressed by Tanya's description of how make up is applied to the mannequins in order to create different features:
"if we have been successful in sculpting an ambiguous face my make up artist will be able to change the appearance of the face to emulate the number of different cultural differences, when the Make-up artist comes in to paint he paints in oils, however, it wouldn't be like a oil painting"
Elaborating further about how the mannequin's initially ambiguous face takes shape, developing a truly individual look, Tanya explained that:
"sometimes the mannequins do not have eye sockets so he [the make-up artist] determines where the eyes are, how large they are, and also what shape and size the lips are... - all of this will be selected against the reference of what the skin shade is"
From my interview with Tanya, I now have an understanding of what Proportion London is doing in order to create diversity in the fashion industry, not through the live models on the catwalk, but through the mannequins that sell clothes to us in the stores. I hope now you too will be able to look at these mannequins and appreciate the true artistry that has gone into creating an ethnically diverse range of looks, through hair and make up, from mannequins that were originally plain and identical.
Here at All Walks we are very excited by what Proportion London are doing in order to create diversity, not just through the models who wear the clothes, but the mannequins that sell the clothes in shop windows. We are now able to appreciate the true art that goes into making mannequins appeal to diverse forms of female beauty, though the hair and make up used. Organisations like Proportion London are shaping the future of diverse beauty in fashion and are certainly breaking the mold in their artistic and creative vision.
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Post and all images by Michael Williamson
Michael is a designer, stylist, blogger and an integral member of the All Walks team, having been with us from the very beginning. Check out his blog, Safety-Pin Charm, to keep your finger on the pulse of all things fashion - especially london based. Follow Michael on Twitter @mwfrost
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Editor Charlotte Gush, on Twitter @CavaCharlotte
SLINK: THE NEW 14+ FASHION GLOSSY
SLiNK magazine is a new online fashion publication aimed at women who are size 14 and above. Editor, Rivkie Baum, trained as a designer and worked as a stylist and freelance journalist before moving into personal shopping, and then a retail-based styling role for plus size women. It was this experience that opened her eyes to the gap in the market for a plus size magazine with the same aspirational qualities as the major industry glossies:
“I became aware that lots of plus size women didn’t even pay attention to trends as there was no media format that showed it to them in an obtainable yet aspirational format. Plus size is a continuous hot topic in the media, yet it still carries so many negative connotations. I wasn’t sure how the industry would feel about a plus size glossy, but so far, it has nearly all been incredibly positive."
SLiNK magazine uses fashion illustration to explore the latest trends, rather than traditional catwalk shots which don’t fit within the ethos of the brand. This allows the magazine to be a platform for up and coming illustration talent.
Aside from fashion, SLiNK covers beauty, hair and makeup, with top tips from industry proffessionals such as Lee Stafford on summer hair trends and Andrew Gallimore ‘Dior’s UK Ambassador’ on lipstick colours. There are also sections on travel, exhibitions, theatre, film and book reviews, and for the second issue SLiNK will be adding technology, music and television sections. Finally SLiNK has a recipe section run by the Head Chef of the Flemings Hotel in Mayfair, London.
All Walks fully supports SLiNK magazine as we share the view that fashion can be just as aspirational on a range of female shapes, sizes, ages and ethnicities, not just on the 'standard' size models usually seen in fashion glossies. We both believe that fashion can be a positive force in women's lives, as a way of expressing individuality, creativity and personality, or even as a way to boost confidence. We both strongly believe that fashion can, and should be, inclusive, allowing women of all shapes, sizes, ages and ethnicities to celebrate their bodies through the clothes they wear.
Check out the first issue using the reader below, or directly on the SLiNK website:
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Post by Charlotte Gush
Charlotte is the Online Commissioning Editor for All Walks, based away from the London office in Manchester. She has previously spent 6 months working for All Walks at the London office as a social media, marketing and production intern. Charlotte writes a fashion, street style and personal style blog, 'CAVACOMA.com', with a dedicated Facebook fanpage here, and a Twitter account @CavaCharlotte.
Caryn Franklin visits Edinburgh’s “ALL WALKS” diverse design show
As colleges gear up to show their latest collections at Graduate Fashion Week, we at All Walks can reveal that diversity is firmly on the agenda.Students at Edinburgh College of Art have been working with All Walks on a project that replaces inanimate tailor's dummies with real and opinionated women, who give the students crucial feedback about their designs.
After all, training on a lifeless dummy and a model who is paid to stay silent (both presenting only one body type, and without movement) is not a rounded training, we say!
The fact is that all women, apart from the odd catwalk model, have ordinary bodies and design students must understand the needs of ordinary women if they are to make a lucrative business; and as these great designs show, creativity is not compromised. Emotionally considerate design is possible, and working on a model with a realistic body shape is a necessity.
Why? Well, as Mal Burkinshaw - course leader at Edinburgh College of Art, who has created this project with us - says, it has made a huge impact on the learning of the students.
Mortwenna Darwel, one of the students, agrees, "I gained a much better understanding of the relationship between real women and fashion."
Jennifer Alexander adds: "I feel I've learned a lot from fittings and communicating with my All Walks muse. From this project onwards, I will take into consideration who I design for and how my garment will make the person feel."
We'd like to thank all of the tutors at Edinburgh who have worked hard to embrace diversity by introducing a range of bodies and ages into the training, in order to help students understand the true meaning of emotionally considerate design and practice.
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Post by Caryn Franklin, All Walks co-founder
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Credits: 1. Pam Craig wears blue dress by Shauni Douglas. 2. Eileen Reilly wears green dress by Isabella Lyginou. 3. Sarah Saunders wears red dress by Laura Jayne Nevis, and 4. Collette Nelson wears maroon and pink dress by Louis Anderson Bythell
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Editor Charlotte Gush, on Twitter @CavaCharlotte
The Ever Changing Female ‘Ideal’: 1960 - 2010 (part 2)
I completely love everything about the 1960’s, the fashion, the music, the art and the entire zeitgeist of the decade. However, the curvy and glamorous ideal of previous decades changed suddenly to a preference for slim, boyish frames. Female ideals consisted of very slight, slim figures, with short pixie crops and heavy eye make up. The fashion encouraged women to look like young girls, with short shift dresses showing off full legs, and boxed jackets not allowing the waist to be cinched in. Most women wanted a boyish frame with fashion models becoming slim for the first time since the 1920’s female ideal. The contrast from 1950-1960’s was evidently huge and could be considered one of the biggest changes in the ever-changing 'ideal' of the female form throughout the decades.
The 1970’s again promoted the female body ideal as slim and slender. This image shows a 1970’s fashion model, showing less skin and flesh than a 1960’s model but still with an innocent look. However, the late seventies allowed women to dress with freedom and with maxi dresses and flares being high on the fashion front, women were able to cover many parts of their body with voluminous clothing and long tousled hair. The unkempt look was popular and 'bed-head' hair was seen for the first time, in the decade of peace and love!
The 1980’s female ideal often celebrated the legs, with very high cut swimwear and underwear. Shoulder pads were worn to emphasise the new power that some women had in their careers.
The 1990s made women want to look healthy. With toned, muscled slender bodies as the ideal female shape, women took exercise and health very seriously. Women wanted to be ‘girl next door’ character, with a natural and fresh appearance. This gave women a chance to work out alongside men at the gym and take sports seriously for the first time; the 1990s saw women want to be gym bunnies!
In the 'naught-ies', the size zero issue has become prominent and the debate is long from being over. Skinny models are seen all over the catwalks and many 'average' women aspire to be as skinny as possible, with this issue sometimes taking over their lives. Women are bombarded with diets, fitness regimes and celebrities showcasing the skinny 'ideal'. Today we are trying to tackle the pressure on women to be skinny, emphasizing that they should be able to celebrate their body no matter what shape, size, age or ethnicity they may be.
Join us in showing the decade that we’re happy with our bodies and that we want to celebrate body diversity!
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Post by Zina Graber
Zina is a fashion styling student from Cornwall who has a huge interest in celebrating the female form and individuality through styling. I want to be part of changing women’s negative perceptions of themselves so I have recently created a campaign that promotes global style and fashion diversity. The idea is to collect photos of individuals around the world, no matter who you are and showcase you’re style to the world. Check out "What Ya Wearing World?" and find Zina on Twitter @whatyawearingw
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Images linked to source
Editor Charlotte Gush, on Twitter @CavaCharlotte
The Ever Changing Female ‘Ideal’: 1900 - 1950 (part 1)
This image portrays the female beauty ideal in the early 1900s and the decades previous. The curvaceous and soft lines of her body represent the freedom of expression and the true, honest beauty of the female body. Women with this weight on their body nowadays could feel negatively about it due to today’s ideals, however, back then it was celebrated to the highest degree. I really love this image showing her beauty in full glory with her admiring herself and others looking on.
This 1910 image of a female beauty shows the fashion for the corseted wasp waist. The corset creates a definite hourglass figure through the use of a heavy-duty corset normally made using whalebone. The corset would be tied so tight that it even could damage the internal organs of the women and could often leave her breathless. My personal opinion of this look is the discomfort would outweigh the overall appeal of the wasp waist.
The 1920’s female ideal completely changed from the years previous. Women could bin their corsets and start to celebrate looser fitting outfits with a boyish feel. Hair was cut short to represent the freedom of expression during the roaring twenties. Women with boyish figures could at last be celebrated for being the beauty ideal and dresses were made with low waist lines to accentuate long legs. Beading was used on many garments to add weight and increase the movement of the fabric. Women could for the first time be as comfotable as a man. I love the 1920’s female ideal; the glitz and glamour of everyday outfits would make anyone feel good about themselves!
This image show a bunch of lovely 1930’s young women, showing off on the beach. Look how happy they look in swimwear in the height of summer. This era allowed the female ideal shape to become again curvaceous. Hemlines dropped again and allowed femininity to take pride of place in many outfits. Florals and girly colours were used to showcase the divide between men and women, where the 1920’s seemed to blur the gender through dressing more. This more curvaceous look really looks great and a lot of 1930’s inspired clothes can be seen on the catwalk and in the high street, which is great! Water for Elephants, a recent film by Francis Lawrence showcases 1930’s fashion perfectly in such amazing costume! Go check it out!
5- 1940 women were sexualised and in full femininity. Curves, legs, breasts, full make up, glamour hair and pin up style looks were popular. The female ideal was sexy, full figured, hourglass shaped and glamorous day and night. Perfection was key and women had the opportunity to try many newly introduced beauty products such as max factor pancake foundation, liquid silk stockings and pillar-box red lipstick. This look is also always available now in mainstream fashion and looks great on every shape, everyone loves a bit of glamour from time to time.
6- The 1950’s female ideal is basically an exaggerated 1940’s one. The waist was even more emphasised and hair and make up was flawless. The glamour icons such as Marilyn Monroe, Audrey Hepburn and Sophia Loren reined as style icons giving women aspirations to be glamorous. The glamour idea solely stemmed from Hollywood icons and film stars allowing women who didn’t fit the ‘ideal’ feel very excluded and insecure. The pressure to live up the ideal was tough and demanding, comparing this to today’s ‘slim ideal’ some people would say it’s a similar pressure felt today by some women.
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Post by Zina Graber
Zina is a fashion styling student from Cornwall who has a huge interest in celebrating the female form and individuality through styling. I want to be part of changing women’s negative perceptions of themselves so I have recently created a campaign that promotes global style and fashion diversity. The idea is to collect photos of individuals around the world, no matter who you are and showcase you’re style to the world. Check out "What Ya Wearing World?" and find Zina on Twitter @whatyawearingw
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Images linked to source
Editor Charlotte Gush, on Twitter @CavaCharlotte
Glamour Espana: My most beautiful flaw
When I read the title of the article, ?My most beautiful flaw? in the May issue of Spanish Glamour magazine, I was shocked to see the word flaw related to something positive. I kept on reading and realized that the article was more an illustrated report, featuring five models with special physical characteristics – usually considered to be flaws – which, in their cases, made a positive differentiation in their careers.
The cases portrayed are the plus size model Jennie Runk, the model Verena – whose eyes are different colors, the black albino model Diandra Forrest, the Italian model Amanda Lopes - who has a protuberant nose, and Sabine, a black model who keeps her natural afro hairstyle.
In my opinion, Glamour’s approach is an interesting attempt to show diverse beauty. However, not all the images are equally surprising or rare, and I don’t believe that keeping natural afro hair or not getting surgery on a Mediterranean nose should be considered big differences inside the fashion industry.
Nevetheless, I recognize that these women send a positive message about uniqueness by feeling good about the differences that make them special. I only hope we can see them soon on Glamour’s fashion shoots.
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Post by Maria Llanos
Our voice from Spain! After graduating in Business Administration, María worked in marketing at L’oréal for almost 3 years. After this period, she decided to develop her creativity by studying an MA in Design Studies at Central Saint Martins, where she developed her thesis around the evolution of the ideal female beauty concept and got to know All Walks. Currently, María is working at a Communication agency in Madrid. Check out all her posts here, and on Twitter @merillanos.
*** All images courtesy of Glamour Espana
Editor Charlotte Gush, on Twitter @CavaCharlotte
Look’s curvy supermodel: Clothes modelling for real women, by real women?
The average British woman is a size 14. Yet the average model, the very platform for showcasing the clothes that 'everyday' women are going to buy, is a considerably smaller size 6. Surely, there’s something not right here? How can we judge fashion when we know that it’s not going to look the same on us as it does on the model? Attempting to close the gap is LOOK magazine, who recently embarked on a mission to recruit a curvy supermodel to star in an editorial shoot between their coveted pages. Potential applicants had to be a size 12 or above.
A team of fashion insiders, including LOOK editor Ali Hall, and plus size model Crystal Renn scoured the country for a girl whose curves could steal any runway show. Nineteen year-old Lyndsay O’Hagan was announced as the winner during London Fashion Week.
So, is the future of fashion a little more voluptuous? Can we expect to see more 'real women' with 'real' figures modelling clothes for us? One thing is for sure: those first few steps Lyndsay took on to the catwalk were significant, they were promising, and they were definitely a long time coming.
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Post by Erin Cardiff
Erin is a second year journalism student at the University of Sheffield. She is currently applying for masters courses in New York to study magazine journalism. Erin has two blogs, Frocking Hell and Erin Actually . You can find her on Twitter @erincardiff.
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Editor Charlotte Gush, on Twitter @CavaCharlotte
Nigella Lawson and the “Burkini” Debate
She is the British food writer and self proclaimed ‘domestic goddess,’ known equally for her Rubenesque figure as she is for her mouth watering recipes. So when Nigella Lawson was photographed on Bondi Beach dressed in what has been described as a “burkini,” it was guaranteed to spark a debate. Why did she cover up? And more to the point- why do we care?
Suggested theories behind her choice of clothing range from it being a political statement, to extreme protection from the sun in an attempt to retain her alabaster complexion; either way Lawson was expressing her right to dress in a manner that she deemed suitable for the occasion.
Who would blame her if she was covering up to avoid the criticism faced by famous women whilst on the beach? As a woman of a certain age, and of a size which does not conform to conventional ideals, Lawson would no doubt come under the scrutiny of the usual host of women’s weekly magazines. The familiar ‘circle of shame,’ used to highlight even the smallest of ‘imperfections,’ reinforces negative body image instead of embracing diversity and empowering women.
As a fuller figured woman who seems comfortable in her own skin, Nigella Lawson represents an army of women who realise that there is more to life than what the weekly rags deem the perfect ‘bikini body.’
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Post by Emma Case
Emma is a Fashion Marketing and Communications graduate who currently works as Sample Co-ordinator at a fashion trimmings company, she also works freelance as a fashion writer at Yogoego.com. Catch Emma on Twitter @EmmaOffDuty
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Editor Charlotte Gush, on Twitter @CavaCharlotte
ADVANCED STYLE
Advanced Style: Age and Beauty on Nowness.com.
Here at All Walks we have been loving photographer Ari Seth Cohen’s blog Advanced Style for a little while now. Showcasing women who have honed their style credentials for generations, it is a wonderful resource of creativity and inspiration. The style of Cohen's subjects is often high-maintainance but it seems effortless at the same time. As several of the fashionistas in the video point out, they don't care what other people think of their style; they dress for themselves and to make themselves happy. Perhaps it is this confidence, and the drive to always be themselves, which makes them such style icons. In this respect, they too are icons of self-belief, wellbeing and happiness, and we can all learn something from them.
The short film, above, is by Lithuanian-born video maker Lina Plioplyte, who often shoots catwalk films for Nylon TV. This particular film, exclusive to Nowness, allows the viewer an insight into the stylish lives of the women featured on the Advanced Style blog.
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Post by Charlotte Gush
Charlotte is the Online Commissioning Editor for All Walks, based away from the London office in Manchester. She has previously spent 6 months working for All Walks at the London office as a social media, marketing and production intern. Charlotte writes a fashion, street style and personal style blog, 'CAVACOMA.com', with a dedicated Facebook fanpage here, and a Twitter account @CavaCharlotte
ADELE: A STAR WHO SHINES FOR ALL THE RIGHT REASONS
It is quite rare to see a music star who appears as authentic as Adele does; both her voice and look are powerful and distinctive. Only 22 years old, she has proved that it is possible to be confident and successful at an early age.Although some may think that Adele does not fit current beauty standards, due to her size, she has an inspiring attitude and embraces her beauty, personality and life in a positive way.? Adele has declared that she gets inspiration from love which makes her feel passionate for things in life: herself, food, wine, music, culture, literature, etc.
Adele has always viewed herself as a talented musician and she believes singing is the best thing she could do. The fact that she is so confident about herself and focuses her energy on improving her art, not changing her physical appearance, is what makes her such an interesting role model to other women, especially in terms of her self-esteem and success.
Adele’s talent has been recognized by the music industry and the general public. After releasing two albums, selling two million copies and winning two Grammys amongst other awards, we can say that she has started a very promising career. In Spain, Adele sold out her two concerts and received positive reviews.
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Post by María Llanos
Our voice from Spain! After graduating in Business Administration, María worked in marketing at L’oréal for almost 3 years. After this period, she decided to develop her creativity by studying an MA in Design Studies at Central Saint Martins, where she developed her thesis around the evolution of the ideal female beauty concept and got to know All Walks. Currently, María is working at a Communication agency in Madrid. Check out all her posts here, and on Twitter @merillanos.
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Images courtesy of Adele.tv
Editor Charlotte Gush, on Twitter @CavaCharlotte
THE CHANGING FACE OF BLACK BEAUTY
The fashion industry plays a significant role in the way in which black women and most importantly, black beauty is defined. As an impressionable teenager I recall struggling to deal with the lack of black models in mainstream fashion magazines. It was frustrating to see yet another model styled to look androgynous or repeatedly featured in tribal/ethnic/sport inspired fashion stories. It would be fair to say that this had an impact on the way that I, as a black woman, viewed myself.Occasionally fashion magazines dare to be different and step away from the usual stereotypes; the April 2011 edition of ELLE UK is a good example.
The 12 page spread could easily have featured a caucasian model as there is no reference to the ethnicity of the model. What strikes me is that the images show a model, as apposed to a ‘black model’. On this occasion we are given the opportunity to view beautiful clothes, on an equally beautiful model - who just happens to be black.
It is all too easy to focus on the negative aspects of the fashion industry but it is important to acknowledge steps in the right direction. Hopefully ELLE UK will continue to promote diversity within their magazine.
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Post by Emma Case
Emma is a fashion marketing graduate, who works as a Sample Coordinator for a trimmings supplier.
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All images from Elleuk.com
Editor Charlotte Gush, on Twitter @CavaCharlotte
ALL WALKS BOOK CLUB:
HOW TO TAKE PART? All you need to do is to buy the book, or even rent it from your local public libary, if you area student why not share with your peers,friends and housemates? THE RULES: no rules we want your opinion and you to feel free to share your voice on the All Walks suggested book and how has it inspired you or made you feel? we will be discussing one chapter a week so we can all focus on the importance of the chapter and to also give all of you the opportunity to be able to read at your own pace and digest. this week we will be starting on introduction and chapter 1. THE CONCEPT: To make global discussion and gather opinions, and to get all of us into reading. WHO IS TAKING PART ON THIS BOOK CLUB?: people who have read this months selected book are the Co founder's and Caryn franklins book review link can be found below. also All Walks Blogger's Maria LLanos our voice from spain, M.W blogger for All Walks.org and Saftypincharm and stylist/designer and ' Free Your Mind 'blogger Nicola Edward's who is an aspiring screenwriter with a campaign aiming to beat stigma towards mental illness through arts and culture. and then of course yourself . so a range of opinion's on this book and the subject matter. HOW TO TALK ABOUT THIS BOOK?: we will be discussing the book on our twitter using # tag: #AWbookclub and on facebook discussion forum : http://www.facebook.com/topic.php?topic=17591&uid=275187151550 Preview of the blog can be read and introduction on Amazon.co.uk Above the copy (co founder Debra Bourne) of Bodies that we see everyday in the All Walks OfficeFor Post by Co Founder Caryn Franklin on the book Bodies
Post by M.W
Pictures curtosy of Amazon and How to lookgood.com
VOGUE THE SHAPE ISSUE HAS GOT US ALL TWEETING…
Its time for the Size issue again, once a year this issue comes out in Vogue US this time with front cover girl Rhianna, looking slightly more femme fatale and less Hard as Nails as her usual Look. What made us here at All Walks want to take a glance at the magazine as well, was the captivating headlines from foods that treat depression and all about eating healthy, Too articles that deal with dressing for your size whatever your shape. Above people today where Talking on twitter this morning about the issue, and asking the question has Anna Wintour succumb finally to using different sizes and showing some natural curves as in above image of Rhianna.and below Co Founder Debra Bourne's responce on Twitter:
So from Twitter talking about Anna Wintour, to All Walks Talks about the sensuality of Rihanna one thing I wish this wasn't a one of issue but Fashion Magazines showed this way of displaying clothes and living throughout the year. what is your views as Always we love to know so get involved on the debate and tell us what you think... Photographer of US Vogue Rhianna Pictures for the Size issue was Annie Liebovitz and some of the clothes where Chloe, Dkny and Herve Leger. Blog post by M.W
The Sartorialist Courts Controversy with Curvy Comments
Of course you would look at her, sashaying through the streets of Milan in her electric blue heels. She’s elegant, that’s for sure. Stylish? Definitely. But curvy? That seems to have hit a nerve. When esteemed photo-blogger Scott Schuman 'The Sartorialist' recently described one of his street style subjects ‘sturdy’ and ‘curvy’, the omnipresent size debate found paper and a match. Readers voiced their outrage, condemning his choice of words, and suggesting he should have described her as ‘normal’ instead.
But the way I see it, one relatively small event has unpacked bigger, more profound debates. Like what exactly is ‘normal’? And what’s so wrong with being curvy, anyway? I always think that matters of appearance are entirely subjective. And, with the variety of shapes and sizes of beautiful women being myriad – I never buy into that fact that we can all neatly slot into one of four fruit-themed categories – can we ever really say somebody has a ‘normal’ figure? I mean, Sophie Dahl is 5”11. Hayden Panettiere is 5”1. Both women are beautiful. But which is ‘normal’? Variety should be celebrated, not inconsiderately characterised and assigned ill-fitting labels. In his rebuttal, the Schuman himself said much the same thing, adding: “I am proud to be a blog[ger] showing women of different sizes. I don't want to lose the potential power of the post by being caught up in wordplay.”
Are people getting angry about the wrong thing here? Yes, to thousands of readers, and I must say, myself, this woman looks lean and healthy, and perhaps ‘curvy’ was not the perfect way to describe her. But does it matter that he did? Why should the word 'curvy' carry any negative connotations at all? Long, lean, petite, curvy; women should be proud of their shape, whatever it may be.
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Post by Erin Cardiff
Erin is a second year journalism student at the University of Sheffield. She is currently applying for masters courses in New York to study magazine journalism. Erin has two blogs, Frocking Hell and Erin Actually . You can find her on Twitter @erincardiff.
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Editor Charlotte Gush, on Twitter @CavaCharlotte
Jul 11, 2011 | Categories: Blog | Tags: +size, All walks, all walks beyond the catwalk, Angelika, curvy, curvy blogger, curvy comment, Scott Schuman, sturdy, The Sartorialist | Comments Off